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EPIT0M15T PlSM'NO Go 



Ind. 



PRACTICAL 



POULTRY CULTURE 



A CONCISE AND PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANAGEMENT 
OF POULTRY FOR PROFIT 



r.r' 



'\ 



BY 

R. W. DAVISON 



ISSULD BY 

THE EPITOMIST PUBLISHING COMPANY 

INDIANAPOLIS. INDIANA 

1898 

Price 35 cents 



^\ 



^ 12618 



Copyright, 1898, 

BY THE 

EPITOMIST PUBLISHING COMPANY. 



ii9t^. 




TWO COPIES RECEIVED- 



INTRODUCTION 



This little book is intended for those who are about 
to embark on the troubled seas of p6ultry raising, or 
those who wish to gain new ideas on the subject. It is 
just a plain, practical poultry book, giving the natural 
and artificial methods of raising, together with some, 
I trust, helpful hints all along the road. 

I have tried to give, in concise form, what knowledge 
I have gained from observation and personal work 
during the past fourteen years. I am indebted to the 
poultry press for many ideas which I have tested and 
found reliable. 

I have not attempted to deal in fancy poultry — so 
called — and yet I bave found that thoroughbred poultry 
is practical poultry; that is, the practical up-to-date 
poullrymen use pure-bred poultry exclusively." I am 
anxious to reach the farmer, for no matter how well he 
understands general stock raising, he is, of all men, 
most ignorant when it comes to poultry. If this book 
proves the means of helping some one over the many 
hard places in poultry raising I will be satisfied. 

R. W. Davison. 
(iii) 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGE. 

Government Statistics 3 

How to Start 4 

The Extent of the Poultry Industry of the United States 1 

The Different Varieties of Poultry 9 

What Breeds to Use 5 

CHAPTER II. 

Hatching (Nature's Method) 12 

The Breeding Stock 11 

The Chick, and How to Raise It (Nature's Method) 14 

CHAPTER III. 

Arrangement of Poultry Plant 38 

Effects of Yarding Fowls 33 

Feeding for Eggs 23 

Fruit and Poultry 36 

Housing 20 

Remarks 28 

Size and Color of Eggs 37 

The Eggs 30 

The Hen 18 

The Laying Period 18 

The Ration 26 

(V) 



VI TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Artificial Incubation. page. 

Egg Tester 45 

Testing the Eggs 44 

The Incubator 42 

The Moisture Question 47 

The Thermometer 45 

Turning the Eggs 47 

CHAPTER V. 

Brooding Houses 55 

Feeding Young Chicks 58 

Remarks 69 

The Brooder 50 

CHAPTER YI. 

Dressing for Market 71 

Dry Picking 74 

Get a Reputation 78 

Killing 73 

Packing 75 

Scalded Chicks 76 

CHAPTER YII. 

The Turkey. 

Breeds 80 

Feeding 81 

Letters from Successful Turkey Raisers 86-92 

Young Turkeys 82 

The Duck. 

An Experiment 98 

Artificial Incubation 95 

Breeding 99 

Food 94 

Food for Young Ducks 96 

Marketing 97 

Noted Duck Districts 100 

The Duck House .... = .. 94 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. Vll 

The Goose. ' page. 

Breeds 100 

Hatching 101 

Picking 102 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Diseases of Poultry and Treatment. 

Apoplexy , 116 

Broken Bones 116 

Bumble Foot 116 

Chicken-pox 109 

Cholera 107 

Constipation and Diarrhea Ill 

Cramps 115 

Debility or Going Light 122 

Diphtheria and Canker 112 

Dysentery 110 

Egg-Bound 113 

Egg Eating 124 

Feather Eating 124 

Gapes 125 

Indigestion 109 

Leg Weakness 114 

Lice 127 

Limber Neck 123 

Pip 122 

Pneumonia 119 

Rheumatism 114 

Roup 104 

Scaly Legs 115 

The Comb 120 

The Crop 117 

The Liver 110 

The Lungs 118 

The Oviduct 113 

Worms 123 



^.. TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IX. p^^^ 
Caponizing. 132 

Food *'"'*"'*! 1^2 

Instruments 131 

Size of Capon ""*" 131 

Slips "'*"'*. 132 

When to Caponize 

CHAPTER X. 

140 

A Cold-storage House '*' ^39 

Keeping Accounts ^^^ 

Keeping Eggs ' 136 

Supply and Demand 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE 



CHAPTER I. 



THE EXTENT OF THE POULTRY INDUSTRY OF THE UNITED 

STATES HOW TO START AND WHAT BREEDS TO USE 

THE DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF POULTRY. 

The poultry business is supposed by many to be a 
small business — not worth the serious thoughts of our 
agricultural colleges or of educated men. The fact is 
that the government has neglected its duty in this re- 
spect, and we, therefore, have no sure figures to go by; 
but it is estimated, by those in a position to know, that 
about 1,820,000,000 dozen eggs are annually consumed 
in the United States, and putting the average price per 
dozen at twelve cents (far below an average), we have 
the grand total of $218,000,000, which is far more than 
the value of our combined output of iron and wool. 
Along side of these figures put the value of dressed poul- 
try and we have one of the most important industries in 
the United States. -It is estimated that 258,871,125 
chickens, -10,544,080 turkeys, 8,440,175 geese, and 
7,544,080 ducks are annually consumed. If we average 
this lot and put the value of each at fifty cents, which is 

(1) 



Z PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

about one-third less than it should be, we have the grand 
total of $360,699,730. Of course these figures do not in- 
clude (excepting the estimate on eggs) the vast quanti- 
ty consumed by private families who raise and eat their 
own fowls. Neither do they include that vast and 
growing business commonly called the ''fancy trade," 
or the sale of eggs and thoroughbred poultry for breed- 
ing purposes. The West is becoming the great center 
of the poultry product. They lack the favorable mar- 
kets of the East, but the cost of production is much 
less, and refrigerator cars and especially arranged cars 
for live poultry, now carry the product quickly and 
easily to the best market. To show the extent of this 
rail traffic, we will state that during the forepart of 1895 
there was an average monthly shipment of no less than 
100 car loads gathered up east of Kansas City, and car- 
ried East by one road only, and yet the poultry indus- 
try is constantly and rapidly growing. Will it soon be 
overdone ? No, not while we, as we do, import over 
$5,000,000 worth of eggs annually, and while there are 
yet thousands of families who eat "chicken" but twice a 
year. It is stated on good authority that with some of 
the Missouri banks the exchange on the poultry prod- 
uct is greater than from any other branch of trade. 
The writer believes that if a correct census was taken 
of the poultry product it would be found to surpass, in 
money value, the entire wheat product. 

The political economist has never imagined the hen 
worthy of scientific consideration. The world could 
easily survive the loss of all political economists, but 
what a howling there would be if the neglected hen 
should be threatened with extermination. 

In the above we stated that the government had neg- 
lected its duty in this respect, and so it has; but yet in 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 6 

Govern- 1889 a census of the egg and poultry product 
ment ^ was taken, and although it is ''official," yet 
Statistics, it is far below the true values ; but we will 
give the figures, for it gives us something '' official '^ 
to work on. 

The number of chickens supposed to be in the United 
States in 1889 was 258,472,155, and other fow^ls (ducks, 
turkeys and geese), 26,816,545. The number of dozen 
eggs produced in 1SS9, 817,211,146. At the very mod- 
erate price of twelve cents a dozen the value of eggs 
alone amounts to $98,000,000, or about $100,000,000 
in 1890, allowing for a healthy growth, compared with 
the past years, or from 1880, when the first census was 
taken. In order to give some idea of the egg yield we 
will state that if we were to count these eggs (produced 
in 1889), 9,806,533,752 (not dozens) at the rate of one 
a second, it would take us about nine years of 300 
working days each. 

Now, then, in 1889 there were 285,288,700 fowls of 
all kinds in the United States. If we use round num- 
bers and call it 285,000,000 fowls — for convenience — 
and each one worth twenty-five cents, we have the 
sum of $71,250,000 as the value, but if we place the 
value of each fowl at forty cents (which is nearer the 
correct value), we have $114,000,000. Add this value 
to the value of the egg product and we have a product 
of $212,000,000. These figures do not include the 
amount of poultry and eggs consumed, but the value 
of what we produce in one year. Neither do these fig- 
ures include the '' fancy" trade. The broiler business 
was also in its infancy, w^e might say, in 1889 ; thus 
we look to see the next census double these values. 

It is simply impossible to get a correct value of the 
poultry business, for every hamlet and log cabin has 



4 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

its little flock; even good-sized towns have their '^back- 
yard" chicken-coops. 

The states which lead in the production of chickens 
are as follows, in the order named : Missouri, Illinois, 
Iowa, Kansas, Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, Tennessee, 
Texas, Pennsylvania, New York, North Carolina, Ne- 
braska, Georgia, Arkansas, Alabama, Michigan, Wis- 
consin and Mississippi. 

The states which produce the most turkeys, ducks, 
geese, etc., are in the following order : Missouri, Illi- 
nois, Kentucky, Iowa, Tennessee, Texas, Indiana, Kan- 
sas, Michigan and Pennsylvania. 

The states which lead in all kinds of poultry are 
Missouri, Illinois and Iowa. 

Ohio is the banner egg state, which produced in 1889 
over 70,000,000 dozen ; following in the order given 
are Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Pennsylvania, New York, 
Indiana and Kansas. 

Let the good work go on. It does not ask govern- 
ment aid, but it does ask to be classed in its proper 
place as one of the great industries of a great nation. 

It is well before starting in the poultry business, 
either as a business or for pleasure, to face the fact that 
everyone can not raise chickens. We will 
Start. ^ have to make up our mind to study and work. 
That there are many ups and downs, especially 
dow^ns, and if w^e wish to make it an especial business 
we must invest large capital therein. There is no royal 
road to wealth in this business. Man must eat bread 
by the sweat of his brow. We have been in the poul- 
try business long enough to know that there is a living 
in it if properly managed, and judicial investments have 
been made by practical and experienced men. 

People are very slow to invest money in a business 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 5 

that they are familiar with. They know that location 
and many other considerations will prove factors in fu- 
ture dealings, and yet people will invest largely in the 
poultry business, of which they know nothing, and 
when failure overtakes them the business gets the 
blame. 

We will never advise a man to invest largely in poul- 
try unless he has experience to carry him through. 
The proper thing to do is to commence at the bottom 
and gradually work up. Have some other occupation 
that will not require all your time, and devote the odd 
moments to poultry. In this way we can soon tell (in, 
say two or three years), when it will pay us to devote 
all our time to poultry. 

It is a very fascinating occupation, and the person 
who once allows himself to thoroughly take the fever 
(it is very contagious) will never wholly recover. He 
may be involved in railroads or politics, or he may take 
up a profession, but somewhere — in the back yard or 
elsewhere — he will still keep a pen or two of thorough- 
bred fowls. 

The first question to be decided by the would-be poul- 
tryman, is : What do I want to make a specialty of — 
6ggs, market poultry, or both ? The major- 
Breed, ^^y ^^ people wish to raise fowls for both 
eggs and market poultry, or eggs and broilers 
or roasters. If we wish to take up the business 
merely for profitable pleasure, then several of the more 
fancy — so-called — breeds can be selected, but where 
dollars and cents count, then we would recommend 
only one breed, or at most, two. Thoroughbred poul- 
try, or first crosses, should alone be used for the laying 
stock. 

By first crosses we mean the progeny from two dif- 



6 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

ferent breeds of thoroughbreds. The pullets from this 
first cross may be selected for layers, but there the 
crossing should stop, for it will only result in disaster, 
unless the person making the selection perfectly under- 
stands his business and has some definite object in 
view. The crossing of two similar breeds, such as a 
Leghorn on a Minorca or Red Cap, will produce noth- 
ing better than the parents. If our object is eggs, and 
a fair sized body is also desired, then we can cross a 
Leghorn on a Plymouth Rock or Langshan. This will 
give us a good sized carcass, good layer (probably not 
quite as good as the Leghorn pure) and a rapid, strong 
grower. If we desire a fine broiler or roaster, then we 
should mate an Indian Game cock on a Wyandotte hen, 
and we will get just what we w^ant. Nothing will sur- 
pass this cross for the purpose, although an Indian 
Game crossed on Light Brahmas will give us excellent 
birds. The main gain in crossing two breeds is strong, 
healthy offspring, but on the whole, we do not recom- 
mend it, for eight persons out of ten who commence to 
cross will end by making scrubs out of their fowls in- 
side of three years. When thoroughbreds are raised 
properly they are hardy, and as we have some seventy- 
five different varieties (this includes different varieties 
of a given breed) to choose from, it will be seen that 
we can select and breed just what we want. Of course 
new blood will have to be procured every second year, 
although by judiciously selecting the largest, earliest 
hatched and strongest cockerels from a large flock, w^e 
can fix desirable points and yet sustain our strain. 
This should never be practiced by the novice. It re- 
quires somewhat of practice and experience. It must 
be remembered that the best laying breeds are not the 
best market breeds, and vice versa, therefore we should 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 7 

select with our object in view. The most popular breeds 
now used, especially for laying, are the several varieties 
of the Leghorns and Minorcas, while the medium 
weight breeds, general purpose, so-called, most in 
favor are the^ several varieties of Wyandottes and 
Plymouth Rocks. Light Brahmas are the largest of 
thoroughbreds and they and the Cochins make good 
winter layers in a cold climate. Being heavily feath- 
ered they can stand zero weather better than the smaller 
varieties. Indian Games and Dorkings are the best 
purely market breeds we have. They are fair layers 
also, but their dressed carcass presents a morsel that is 
hard to resist — several morsels in fact, for they are 
good sized, weighing about the same as Plymouth 
Rocks. 

We have merely given the most popular breeds (ex- 
cept Dorking, which are little bred in this country), 
but if any one has a preference for any other variety, he 
should stick to it, providing it is suitable to his needs. 
We should breed just what w^e most admire, for if we 
can add pleasure to profit, without sacrifice, we ought 
to do it. Where our heart is, there we will be, literally 
in the midst. The person who undertakes to raise 
poultry on a large scale can not afford to take a day off 
twice in awhile. The business demands close applica- 
tion, and every little detail will have to be personally 
attended to. The hired man has been the cause of 
many failures. 

The breeding stock is the very foundation of the 
business and therefore should be bred and selected with 
great care. It must be farm-raised with plenty of 
room, for if our chickens do not grow up strong an(i 
healthy we can not expect success. The hen, or breed- 
ing stock, is of the very first importance. ^' Like priest, 



8 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

like people," applies to poultry in a peculiar sense, but 
we will touch on this later on. 

There is some controversy over the question of the 
laying powers of the pullet or hen. We have demon- 
strated, to our own satisfaction, that the pullet, if 
hatched early and given a chance for a satisfactory 
growth, will make the better fall, winter and spring 
layer. With May, the hen (two years old or over) com- 
mences to pick up, and by June or July she is doing 
about as well as the pullet. We are presuming that 
both have been laying, more or less, all winter. As a 
general rule, after a hen reaches her second moult, she 
has passed her profitableness, although there are occa- 
sionally hens that will lay well until three or four years 
old. Do not dispose of a hen that has proved a good 
layer. Pick out all such and keep them separate so 
long as they prove profitable. Those who are in the 
business for eggs rely solely on early hatched pullets, 
they being far more reliable. If, however, broilers are 
desired early, then it is a question, which will give the 
better results. The generally accepted rule is, pullets 
for eggs, hens for chickens. This applies to early win- 
ter chicks. By spring the pullet will be sufficiently 
developed to give us healthy chicks. We have never 
been able to test this question as it should be tested, 
but we have had good results from early, well-matured 
pullet eggs, even when used for hatching in November. 
The main question is perfect development. If cocker- 
els are used, they should be hatched not later than 
March 10th, but the general rule is to mate cocks with 
pullets and cockerels with hens. 

•The ''American Poultry Association" is composed of 
the leading '* Fanciers '* in the country. Every five 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 9 

Th D'ff - y^^^'^ ^^ publishes a book called ''The Amer- 
eut Varie- lean Standard of Perfection." More prop- 
ties of Poul- erly speaking, every five years it publishes 
^'^' a new edition, making slight alterations and 

adding any new breeds that are found worthy. 

This book is the law and the guide for the judges at 
our shows. It describes minutely every breed or vari- 
ety of poultry. It deals with ideal specimens, and by 
studying its pages we can see how nearly our birds 
come to the ideal as given in the Standard. It is sold 
by all poultry publications at one dollar, and should be 
in the hands of every poultry man, whether he is breed- 
ing for ''points" or not. 

For those who do not own a copy, or who are not fa- 
miliar with the different varieties of poultry, we will 
give a list which will be nearly complete. 

The Mediterranean class comprises the smaller breeds, 
and are the egg layers. It is composed of Leghorns — 
Brown, Rose Comb Brown, White, Rose Comb White, 
Black, Dominique, Buff and Silver Duckwing ; Minor- 
cas — White, Black, Blue Andalusian, and Black Span- 
ish. We also have (among the egg-layers or smaller 
varieties) Red Caps; Houdans ; Hamburgs— Black, 
Golden Penciled, Golden Spangled, Silver Penciled, 
Silver Spangled and White ; Campines — Golden, Silver. 
In the American class, or general purpose class, we 
have Plymouth Rocks — Barred, Buff, Pea-Combed 
Barred, White ; Wyandottes — Silver, Golden White, 
Buff, Black, Columbian ; White Wonders ; Javas — 
Black, White, Mottled; American Dominique and Jer- 
sey Blues. We will also place here Crevecoeurs, Dor- 
kings — Colored, Silver-Gray, White ; La Fleche. 

In the Asiatic class, which is composed of the heav- 
ier varieties, we have, Brahmas — Light, Dark, Buff ; 



10 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

Cochins — Buff, Partridge, AVhite, Black; Langshans — 
White, Black, Blue. 

The Polish ckiss is composed of light-weight birds, 
and is as follows : Polish — Bearded Golden, Bearded 
Silver, Bearded White, Buff Laced, Golden, Silver, 
White, White-crested Black. We should have added 
White-faced Black Spanish to the lighter weights also. 

There are a few miscellaneous breeds, such as Rus- 
sians, Sumatra, Silky, Sultan, Frizzles, Rumpless. 

In Games we have Black-breasted Red, Brown Red, 
Golden Duckwing, Silver Duckwing, Red Pyle, White, 
Black, Birchen ; Game Bantams — Black-breasted Red, 
Brown Red, Golden Duckwing, Silver Duckwing, Red 
Pyle, White, Black, Birchen. We will add, also, In- 
dian Game and Black-breasted Red Malay. 

We ought to be able to pick out something desirable 
from this list. In ducks we do not have such a varie- 
ty. Ducks — Pekin, Aylesbury, Black East Indian, 
Gray Call, White Call, Cayuga, Colored Muscovy, 
White Muscovy, Crested White, Rouen. 

In turkeys we have — Bronze, Narragansett, Black, 
Buff, Slate, White. And in geese — African, Brown, 
China, Egyptian, Embden, Toulouse, White China, Wild. 

It seems as though we had a sufficiency in fowls, and 
yet new breeds are constantly springing up, or, rather, 
different varieties. It is well to stick to a breed we 
have tried and found good, rather than branch off on 
something new, only to find that they are no better or 
not so good. 

The most popular varieties to-day are the Leghorns, 
Plymouth Rocks, Brahmas and Cochins, Langshans, 
Minorcas, Wyandottes, Indian Games and Hamburgs. 
We can find here just what w^e want, providing we 
know what we want. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE BREEDING STOCK SETTING THE HEN THE CHICK, 

AND HOW TO RAISE IT ( NATURE'S METHOD). 

As we said before, the breeding stock is the founda- 
tion to the whole business, therefore it will be well to 

consider this question first. 
iiiff Stocl ^^ "^^ commence the poultry business by 

buying a large number of hens and thereby 
think to gain a year or two at a single bound. Take 
things easy and commence with a few — say 15 — and 
learn how to make these lay winter and summer first. 
The rest will follow in its natural course. Start with 
thoroughbreds. If you can not afford to buy a dozen 
or two, buy a pair or trio. Commence right and buy 
the best blood procurable and then you will not have 
to, in a few 3^ears, go back and commence all over again. 
Remember that the best is none too good. Probably 
some would prefer to buy eggs in the spring and start 
by raising their own stock. That is a good way, but 
we prefer to buy stock and raise the eggs for hatching. 
In buying stock be very careful about getting more 
than you pay for — disease. Always shut up the new 
birds for several days so as to make sure they are per- 
fectly healthy. We will here take up the natural 
method of raising chickens, presuming that they are 
intended for stock, while market poultry, generally, 
will be taken up under the head of broilers or the arti- 
[icial method. 
Before we set our hens we should provide a ''set- 

(11) 




12 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

ting-room" — a place set apart for this purpose exclu- 
sively. If many hens are to be set at one 
Hatching-, time, make a row of nests all around the 
house, using the ground floor for the bottom 
of the nests. If this does not afford 
sufficient room, build another row on 
top of these. Each nest should be 

fourteen by sixteen inches, and each 

should have some kind of a slat door, so as to always be 
ready to lock the hen in should it be found advisable. 
Shape up the dirt in bottom of nest, so that the center 
will be about two inches lower than the sides, but let 
the slant be gradual. Cover the dirt with an inch of 
hay, straw, or anything handy; procure a number of 
egg gourds or china eggs ; capture the intended setter 
after dark, carefully remove her to the setting-room and 
lock her in one of the nests, previously having placed 
therein a few of the gourds. If she sits quietly for a 
couple of days, then good eggs may be substituted for 
the gourds. A great many people make the costly mis- 
take of giving too many eggs to a hen ; especially is 
this true during cold weather. During warm weather 
a hen can take care of more eggs, for it w411 not make 
much difference if an egg or two gets partly uncovered 
for a short time. During cold weather these partly un- 
covered eggs may get chilled, and then when the hen 
shifts them these eggs may get covered and other pre- 
viously covered ones may get left out; thus nearly all 
the eggs will be spoiled. In general, thirteen fair 
sized eggs are plenty for an ordinary sized hen ; it takes 
a large hen to properly cover fifteen eggs. Always test 
the eggs on the seventh {or fifth) day of incubation. 
If several hens have been set at once, then all the fer- 
tile eggs can be placed under one or more hens, and 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 13 

the balance of the hens, without eggs, can be reset, thus 
saving time and hens. Never use stale eggs for nest- 
eggs; they may get broken and soil the hen and nest. 

There are various ''lice preventives " to put in the 
nests, but we have learned to rely on the best insect 
powder we can find. After the hen settles down to 
business, give her a good dusting — also the nest — 
taking her by the legs, head down, and sprinkle the 
powder well into the feathers, using the first two fingers 
and thumb to grasp the powder with. About two days 
before the chicks are due to hatch, repeat the dusting. 
It is within the lines of fact to state that two-thirds of 
the mortality among small chickens is due directly to 
the ravages of lice, and we, therefore, can not be too 
particular on this point. It is better to err on the side of 
too much insect powder rather than not enough. Have 
proper coops prepared previous to the hatching of the 
chicks. A good coop is made in the shape of an in- 
verted V. It should be about 2 ft. 6 in. wide at bot- 





A V-SHAPED COOP. COOP WITH PROTECTED RUN. 

torn and 3 ft. long or deep, with a slat front. Have 
the slat or opening in one end, and never on the side, 
for in case of rain storms the hen can not keep the 
chickens dry, unless old carpet or bagging is thrown 
over this wide opening. Small dry goods boxes cov- 
ered with tarred roofing also make a good coop. Early 
in the season, during chilly and damp weather, have a 



14 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

movable board bottom for the coop. This will keep 
the chicks from the damp ground. Be careful to cleaiy 
this bottom off and sand it every day or it will pD(5ve 
worse than no bottom. As warm weather approaches 
the bottoms should be removed, and the coops are 
cleaned by simply moving them each day to fresh 
ground. 

It is very convenient to have these little lath runs 
for our chicken coops. Early in the season or on damp, 
rainy days the boards or muslin can be so laid on the 
frames as to give protection from the winds or rain and 
confine the chicks as well. They should be made tight 
enough to prevent chicks from getting out. As they 
grow then they can be let out by taking off an end lath. 
During the hot days of late spring they are useful to 
protect the chicks from the too hot rays of the sun. If 
preferred, wire netting (one inch mesh) can be tacked 
on the frames in place of the lath. 

Allow the chickens to remain undisturbed in the nest 
for twenty-four hours after hatching, then transfer the 
hen and chicks to the coop, placing not more 
The Chick, than twelve or fifteen (according to the sea- 
son) with a hen. If two or more hens were 
set at one time, then the chicks can be given to one or 
more mothers and the remaining hens reset. The first 
feed should be rolled oatmeal or stale wheat bread 
moistened in milk. All surplus milk should be 
squeezed out of bread before feeding. Follow this for 
three days, when the feed may be scalded. This feed 
should contain all the elements of growth and devel- 
opment, and the three most easily procured elements 
may be ground corn, wheat middlings and ground oats 
(sifted so as to remove the hull), equal parts, with a 
handful of sweet ground bone. Scald this mixture 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 15 

with hot water or milk and let stand covered an hour 
before feeding so as to let the steam cook it as much as 
possible. Do not use any more hot water than is sufficient 
to make the mess crumble. Never feed sour or sloppy 
food. Buy the best feed you can, for it will prove the 
cheapest in the end. Anything and everything is not 
suitable for poultry of any age. They require sound, 
sweet food and must have it to do well. Feed the 
chicks four times a day. Give rolled oatmeal or 
bread crumbs in the morning and the scalded mess 
thereafter. A good plan is to have fixed hours for 
feeding and always feed just at that time. The first feed 
should be given at 6 o'clock a. m. (5 o'clock if possi- 
ble), the second at 10 o'clock, the third at 2 p. m., and 
the fourth at 6 o'clock. Every other day give boiled 
potatoes at 2 o'clock. A little finely chopped onion, 
top and all, is excellent to give every other day for the 
first month. 

When the chicks have reached five weeks of age then 
three meals a day will be sufficient, and the night feed 
may be whole wheat. Occasionally mix in the soft 
feed a little finely ground charcoal. Grit is also an 
important item, and for small chicks we mix a little in 
the soft feed, using stone grit, chick size. The morn- 
ing feed of oatmeal may be discontinued after the 
fourth week, and the scalded feed substituted. Always 
feed on a clean board, which should be washed off 
every few days. We use a board about three by ten 
inches, around the sides of which we nail on pieces of 
lath, letting them extend above the top side of the 
board about half an inch. This prevents the food from 
getting on the ground. Feed at one time only what 
will be eaten in — say ten minutes. If any should be 
left over carefully scrape it up and give it to the pigs. 



16 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

Give clean water in earthen saucers twice a day. Clean- 
liness is a very important item. If there are any holes 
around where stagnant water stands, fill them up. Af- 
ter the chicks reach eight weeks of age then feed can 
be whole wheat most of the time, but of course oats, 
buckwheat and barley, fed alternately, is better. Corn 
should be fed very sparingly, for it is deficient in bone 
and muscle development, and we must feed for growth 
rather than fat. There is great danger, as the pullet 
reaches maturity, in getting her over-fat. It will 
surely retard egg production and proper develop- 
ment. We are presuming that these pullets are raised 
to supply us with early fall and winter layers. There- 
fore, just as soon as the weather permits, say June 1st 
or 15th, we should remove them to a coop and have 
this coop way out in the field, as far from the old fowls 
as possible. Build these coops out of light material 
and have them about 4x8 feet, on the ground. The 
front should be three feet high and the back two feet. 
Such a coop will provide roosting room for 50 chicks. 
The front can be left open or it can be made with a door 
hinged at the top. If the nights are cold it can be let 
down, and during the day it can be raised and thus 
afford shade for the chicks. Two or three broad, flat roost- 
poles (four inches wide) can be placed near the back. 
No floor is used, and therefore the coop is cleaned by 
moving it to fresh 
ground every day or 
two. If old lumber is 
used to build the coop, 
then it should be cov- 
ered — roof, back and 
sides — with heavy 
roofing paper. Build a field coop. 




PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 17 

enough houses so as to accommodate all the pul- 
lets. The cockerels should be placed by themselves 
and marketed just as soon as possible. If the sexes 
are not separated neither will make a satisfactory 
growth, and growth is what we are after. When 
the pullets are three months old, if they are out on the 
range, then the feed can be given more sparingly, for 
they should be able to gather at least half their food. 
The morning feed can be wheat, oats or barley, but 
only give them enough to take off the sharp edge of 
their appetite. This will send them out looking for 
bugs, seeds, etc., and exercise is the most important 
consideration of all. The night feed (do not feed at 
noon) should be all they will eat up quickly, and con- 
sist of one of the cereals given above. Do not attempt 
to force the comb (undue early laying), for growth 
practically stops with the first egg. Get a good-sized 
frame first, and then feed for eggs. Thus by gradual 
steps we have come down to the laying period, which 
ought to commence by October or November 15 at 
least, and continue right through until the following 
fall. 

2 



CHAPTER III. 

THE HEN THE LAYING PERIOD DIFFERENT METHODS 

FEEDING FOR EGGS. 

Feeding for eggs is a very particular business and 
can only be successfully carried on by experienced 
poultrymen. Howeyer, the novice can soon 
Period^ "^^ overcome the many difficulties by giving 
this branch his undivided attention. Every 
pullet is not cut out for a layer. Careful selection is 
now in order. It is advisable to save more pullets 
than will be required, for some that look promising 
when young will change for the worse when matured, 
and vice versa. Now, before commencing to feed for 
eggs, carefully select only the likely pullets. No matter 
whether thoroughbreds or not, the first consideration 
is health, then development. The leg is very im- 
portant. The bone should be strong and thick. A 
good, strong frame is never supported by a thin, weak 
leg. Aim for a medium length leg, according to the 
breed. 

These are the points to look for if we want good lay- 
ess: Medium length of leg; long, deep, broad-shoul- 
dered bodies, full breast, and legs set mediumly far 
apart, head rather small but strong, and a bright, active 
looking eye. The short, chunky, close-built bird, with 
a mild looking eye, can not be depended upon as a layer. 
Select the birds carefully, retaining only those that 
promise to be suitable. The haphazard wav of select- 

(18) 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 19 

ing laying stock is too expensive, to say the least. 
There is no earthly use in keeping over and feeding 
birds simply because they are birds of the right gen- 
der. The feed is the expensive part of stock raising. 
Too many in one pen, or saving over indifferent layers, 
will cut down the profits more than anything else. If 
we expect to hatch the eggs then we should be just as 
particular about picking out the cockerels, for the cock- 
erel or cock is "half the flock." Now, then, if the 
chicks are on the range and have attained a good growth, 
then by October 1 stimulating food should be given. 
Of course a box of sharp grit has been constantly ac- 
cessible to the chicks. Meat, either cut green bone or 
cured ground meat and bone, such as is sold on the 
market for the purpose, must be added to the early 
morning feed, and this meat should be scalded and 
thereby partly cooked. The advantage thus gained is, 
we can give more of a variety than in any other way, 
and variety is essential. The variety suitable for poul- 
try is composed of the following: Cut clover hay (any 
kind of clover) all vegetables — cut or cooked — includ- 
ing their green tops, wheat, oats, corn, buckwheat, bar- 
ley, linseed meal and meat. Almost anything is suita- 
ble for poultry, providing it is sweet. Damaged or even 
partly damaged grain is very expensive in the end, for 
it will probably relieve you of the surplus stock by 
death. Feed good, sweet, wholesome food at all times. 
Now we should commence to feed pullets the same as 
we expect to during the following winter and spring, 
only do not feed so large a quantity while they are on 
the range and the picking is good; neither will we have 
to feed cut hay or green food. If the pullets are yarded 
then we will have to feed green food. The stock should 
be in medium flesh, but if too fat they will be very slow 



20 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



about laying. We will illustrate: In the fall of 1894 
we put up a pen of white Wyandotte pullets that had 
been running out around the feed room, and conse- 
quently they had received more food than they ought 
to have received. They were very fat. Alongside of 
this pen was another pen that had been taken from the 
field, and these were only in fair condition. The result 
was that this second pen commenced to lay some two 
months earlier than the first pen. In other words they 
commenced to lay about October 10, while the fat pen 
did not commence before December, age and develop- 
ment being about the same. 

Before we enlarge on the egg food we will 
Housing", say a few words on housing the pullets. These 
pullets have had unlimited range since they 
were hatched, for that is absolutely essential for their 
perfect development. Now, by October 1, as stated 
above, these should be fed for egg production, and as 
they near the laying period they should be put in win- 
ter quarters. There are several plans of housing. The 




n 


— ^ 


w 


—." 


- 



A Model Poultry House for Fifty Fowls — Colony Plan. 

* 'colony plan" is the cheapest, but no roosters can be 
used unless the houses are far apart. It is best to put 
about one hundred hens or pullets to the acre, placing 
them in four houses of twenty-five hens each. No 
fences are required. Never place more than fifty in 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



21 



we 



ONE OF OUR DOUBLE HOUSES. 



one flock. Let small raisers or farmers keep but fifty 
fowls for layers, or if more are kept, then build more 
houses and place them as far apart as possible. Eggs 
will usually hatch better and stronger chicks will result 
if the fowls have free range and are properly kept, but 
we have had the best results, in egg yield, from yarded 
fowls. In yarding fowls two styles of buildings are 
used, viz., the long (continuous) house and individual 
houses. We prefer the individual or double houses, 
for they can be placed anywhere and the yards made to 
suit the lay of the land. For the double houses 
would, and do, 
make them ISiax 
18 feet, thus each 
flock has a pen 9x 
13. '2 feet, and each 
yard should be 
about 35x85 feet. 
Place not m ore 
than fifteen hens 
and a cock in each, 
or thirty-two in the 
whole house. This 
is a good method, 
but we very much 
prefer the individ- 
ual house with scratching shed. Build the house the 
same size as above, and make the roosting room 13>^x7 
feet, and the balance will form the open front scratch- 
ing shed. If desired, the front can be closed in bad 
weather by having hinged doors. These doors can be 
simply a frame with muslin tacked on and same hinged 
at the top so as to be out of the way when opened. 
They should swing in and hook against the roof raf- 




Box. 



Ttoajf oml 



■hJ 



Do. 



BaK 



/6Fr 



/6ff. 9/> <;/v^ 

R. R.— Roost poles. P. P.— Dropping board. 
D. D. D. D.— Doors. W. W.— Windows. 
C. — Water fountain. B. — Grit and charcoal boxes . 



22 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



ters. The yard should be 70x85 feet, and twenty-five 
to thirty ]iens kept in each. 

LONG HOUSE, OPEN-FRONT SCRATCHING SHED PLAN. 




The above cut illustrates the much desired (in the 
long house) open-front scratching shed plan. A walk 
can extend along the back if desired. The open- shed 
should be six feet wide and the roosting-room four feet 
wide for a flock of fifteen in each ten feet. The house 
should be ten feet deep w^ithout the walk or thirteen 
feet with the w^alk. Of course, the house can be made 
any length or depth desired. The front should be at 
least seven feet high, so that the sun can shine on the 
entire floor of the scratching shed. Curtains of mus- 
lin tacked on frames and hooked back during nice 
w^eather area great convenience; also wire netting should 
be stretched across the front so the fowls can be kept 
in during bad weather. 

ECONOMICAL POULTRY HOUSE. 




POULTRY HOUSE WITH OPEX-FRONT SCRATCHING SHED UNDERNEATH. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 23 

This plan is cheaper than where the open scratch- 
ing shed is built alongside. It is not so good but 
vastly better than none. Fifteen or twenty fowls 
can be housed comfortably, and the nests can be 
arranged underneath if convenient, and also a wire 
netting can be run across the opening if it is desirable 
to confine the fowls. The birds will soon learn to go 
up and down the stairs. 

These houses are excellent to use in the colony plan. 
When the fowls have unlimited range, twenty to twenty- 
five fowls can be placed in each house of this size. 

Before we speak of exercise, etc., we will go back to 
the feed for the pullets or hens if we keep any of the 
latter over. People often get terms mixed. 
Feed. and thus cause trouble. Chickens, pullets 

and cockerels are fowls that have not passed 
the one year mark ; after one year of age they are hens 
or cocks. We will give the feed for yarded fowls, but 
if the fowls are not yet yarded, then the clover or green 
food can be left out. The first feed should be given at 
6 o'clock, or as early as the fowls can see to eat it. A 
good many scald this mess, or mash, as it is called, 
and feed it warm, but this is not necessary. Mix it 
up the day before, if convenient. This mash should 
be composed as follows: Four quarts (solid measure) 
cut clover hay, or hay chaff ; two quarts wheat bran, 
two quarts ground oats, one quart ground corn and one 
to one and one-half quarts ground dried meat (freshly 
cut green bone is better than anything else in this line, 
but it should be fed clear and at noon at the rate of 
one pound to fifteen hens). This amount will feed 
sixty-five or seventy-five fowls. The quantity to feed 
will have to be decided by each person, and give the 
amount that experience teaches. The size and activity 



24 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

is a factor ; also whether the fowls are yarded or are 
running at liberty. For yarded fowls we usually give 
wdiat they will eat up clean in, say, ten minutes. 
Twice a week substitute linseed or cottonseed meal for 
corn meal, and, in fact, vary the feed as much as pos- 
sible, using boiled mashed potatoes or any kind of 
roots for the foundation feed two or three mornings in 
each week. We believe in a noon feed. Give a pint 
of small seed — wheat, buckwheat, sorghum seed or 
kafhr corn — in the litter of scratching shed to about 
sixteen hens. At night feed whole wheat, oats, buck- 
wheat, barley or corn alternately. Throw this feed 
also among the litter. Feed it an hour before sun- 
down so that the hens will have time to work it all out. 
Give this feed more liberally so the fowl will go to 
roost with a full crop and yet have none left over. By 
feeling of the crop, at night, we can tell whether we 
have fed enough or too much. We usually find that 
fifteen good handfuUs of grain will be sufficient for 
fifteen fowls at night feed. The object should not be 
to fill up the crop in the morning and then keep it full, 
but to gradually fill it up. In this way the hen will 
scratch and exercise more. The kind or variety of the 
feed is very important, and yet not more so than the 
manner in which it is given. Always keep the hens 
busy, thereby insuring health and preventing feather 
pulling and egg eating. The fioor of the house or shed 
is very important. It should be filled in each fall with 
six inches of dry, fine sand or dirt, and be covered 
with six or eight inches of straw, leaves, or any kind 
of litter so that the hens will have to work hard in 
order to dig out the grain. Green food of some kind 
should be provided twice a week, although the clover 
hay is in itself a green food. In starting the pullets 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 25 

we add, to the soft mash, a little condition powder. 
We do not believe in stimulants to any great extent, 
but 'a little at the start will help to put the fowl in 
good condition, purify the blood, etc., thus gradually 
stimulating the egg producing parts or ovaries. Occa- 
sionally give a couple of feeds in which a little condi- 
tion powder has been mixed all during the laying 
period. If we wish to hold any hens over the molt we 
can, as they reach this period, hasten it a little by 
feeding stimulants, such as linseed meal or cottonseed 
meal at the rate of one quart to seven quarts of mixed 
ground food, and we can also profitably use condition 
powders during this trying period. 

It will not pay us to hold over the molt indifferent 
layers. In fact, if the production of eggs is the "all- 
important," then we should sell the old hens just be- 
fore they molt or stop laying. If, however, we wish 
to hold any over, then we should pick out the best layers 
only for this purpose. Molting is the most trying 
period in the life of a fowl, and many die from the 
strain caused by the production of a new crop of feath- 
ers. As stated above, they should have special care. 
The molt proper lasts about one hundred days, but it 
can be shortened or lengthened according to the food 
and care. If lice are found on the body sprinkle with 
insect powder. The lice not only sap the vitality, but 
often injure the young feathers, which is a considera- 
tion if the bird is a show specimen. Do not feed much 
corn during this period, for it is lacking in nitrogen 
and mineral matter. If the birds are yarded, see that 
they have a good supply of green food. Use the con- 
dition powder during the entire period. Green cut 
bone should be given in place of the linseed or cotton- 
seed meal three days during a week; also, add tincture 



26 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

of iron in the drinking water twice a week. Hens 
that molt late in the fall will not lay during the fore 
part of the winter, so it is advisable to sell these late 
molters unless they are valuable breeders. Pullets do 
not molt, except occasional feathers, the first fall, un- 
less they have been hatched before March. We would 
not advise holding over hens that show no sign of 
molting before November 1. Late molters require 
careful housing on cold or damp days. 

Let us give a few tables for feeding for eggs. We 
will base our calculations on sixty fowls. The amount 

may prove too little or too much, according 
The Ration, to the size and activity of the birds. We 

are presuming that the fowls are yarded, 
and that they are in four flocks, although this last 
does not affect the feeding. We will give four tables,, 
and they should be given on alternate mornings: 

No. 1. — Shorts or middlings 5 quarts. 

Ground oats 2 " 

Corn meal 2 " 

Prepared meat 1 *' 

No. 2.— Shorts 4 " 

Ground oats 2 " 

Corn meal 2 " 

Ground buckwheat 1 " 

Prepared meat 1 " 

No. 3. — Boiled vegetables 4 " 

Shorts 2 " 

Ground oats 2 *' 

Linseed meal 1 " 

Prepared meat 1 " 

No. 4.-- Cut clover hay 5 " 

Ground oats 2 " 

Ground buckwheat 1 ** 

Shorts 1 " 

Prepared meat 1 " 

Give No. 4 three mornings in the week. No. 3 two, 
and Nos. 2 and 1 one morning each. As we stated be- 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 27 

fore, thoroughly scald this mixture (after having first 
mixed the ingredients while dry) and use only enough 
water to moisten it. Let it stand tightly covered for 
one hour after mixing, so as to cook it. Feed it either 
warm or cold, and be sure that it is not too soft or 
sloppy. It should be just wet enough to be crumbling 
when fed. This should be fed in a trough. Have 
this trough long enough so that all the fowls can get 
to it at once and not crowd. A good one is made as 
follows: For fifteen fowls take a piece of board eight 
inches wide by five feet long. Nail an upright piece 
to each end, as shown in cut. Nail a lath on either 
side of bottom and let it project up 
three-fourths of an inch, so as to 
keep the food from falling off. The 
cross-bar on top should be two or two and a half inches 
wide. This is the handiest trough we know of. It 
can be easily moved around, and after feeding, can be 
hung up out of the way. It does not need any cleats 
on the bottom to keep it out of the litter, for it is only 
in use a few minutes each day, and it is wide enough 
so that if set level it will not be readily knocked over. 
Fresh water should be given twice a day, and in such 
a manner so that the fowls can not readily soil it. We 
use gallon paint cans. One can answer for two flocks 
(in our double houses). It is set in the partition 
fence, half projecting on each side, and high enough 
from the ground so that very little, if any, litter can be 
scratched in it. The platform that the can rests on is about 
a foot up from the floor, and this projects out in each pen 
far enough for the fowls to stand on while drinking. 
About fifteen minutes after feeding the morning mash, 
start around to water, at the same time hanging up the 
feed troughs, and if any food is left, carefully gather it 



28 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

up, and if it will keep sweet, save it for next morning. 
The proper way to do is to feed only what they w^ill eat 
up clean in say ten minutes or less. After watering, 
the droppings should be removed; at the same time 
look for signs of lice, and if any are found, give the 
things a painting with kerosene. At noon or before, 
say 11 o'clock, give about six good handfuls of small 
grain in the litter, taking time to kick it well under. 
At night, an hour before sundown, give a good handful 
of grain, as given above, for each fowl. 

Our object, of course, is eggs, not fat fowls. We 

should aim to keep our birds in fair condition; avoid 

the two extremes — too poor and over-fat. Do 

Some Re- ^^^^ jj^^^ ^p g^\l i^in(3s or conditions of hens; 

marks. 

keep each variety separate. Old hens take 

on fat more readily than pullets, and therefore should 
be kept separate. Feed enough, but let there be plenty 
of bulk. Concentrated food is too rich for laying hens. 
Never place Leghorns and Brahmas in the same pen. 
Whether thorough -breds or common fowls are used, 
the rule should be the same, i. e., place fowls of the 
same weight and build in their respective pens, and if 
only one variety is raised, then each fall save over only 
the hens that come nearest to the ideal. With some 
people the custom prevails to sell all the largest 
birds because they bring more on the market. This is 
very doubtful economy. The early, quick-maturing 
pullets are the ones to save for breeders, for like surely 
begets like. If the runts and inferior or late hatched 
birds are retained for breeders, then it will only be a 
question of a year or tw^o when the poultry yard will 
cease to pay expenses. The pullets will not lay, nor 
the chicks thrive. The best is none too good. When 
the {owls are running at liberty, then the summer food 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 29 

should be partly withheld. Give a light breakfast of 
the mash, as given above, and rely almost wholly on 
wheat for the night feed, giving only what the hens 
seem to eat with a relish. 

During cold weather give as large a variety as possi- 
ble, and if very cold, feed whole or cracked corn at 
night. Give warm water, if weather is cold, twice a 
day. Do not let the fowls out in the yards if very cold 
or stormy, but keep them busy indoors scratching in 
the litter. Remember that warmth and exercise is, if 
anything, more essential for the production of winter 
eggs than the quality of the food. Try to preserve an 
even temperature day and night. On mild days open 
the door and windows, for it must be remembei'ed that 
the fowl will have to sleep in the same clothes it works 
in, and if we keep them too close during the day, then 
they will feel the cold of night more and colds will fol- 
low. Eggs are composed largely of nitrogenous elements, 
and the variety given above is largely-nitrogenous. 
Carbonaceous foods produce flesh and heat, and while 
a certain proportion is necessary to sustain the fowl, 
yet too much is a great hindrance to egg production. 
Corn is largely carbonaceous and should be fed with 
care. It is far safer to feed wheat the year round than 
it is corn, it being a more complete food. The smaller 
and more active varieties can carry a corn ration better 
than the large and less active ones, and in feeding we 
will have to decide many things for ourselves. The 
size of the fowl and whether yarded or not are factors 
of importance. Fowls running at large can stand more 
corn than those yarded, because more exercise is taken 
and they can gather a large variety for themselves and 
thus balance the ration. For experiment, we have 
kept yarded fowls for a year, winter and summer, with- 



30 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

out a particle of corn, and had them to give us an ex- 
cellent egg yield, even in the coldest weather. While 
a small proportion of corn is beneficial, yet it can not 
be too strongly condemned as a summer feed for yarded 
fowls. With yarded fowls the watchword should be: 
Plenty of sun during cold weather and plenty of shade 
for warm weather. 



THE EGGS. 

While a proper food for egg production will bring 
the eggs, yet with yarded fowls it is not so easy to get 
eggs with nice yellow yolks. These pale yellow 3^olks 
do not denote weakness or staleness, but a lack of color- 
ing matter in the food. Lack of green food and 
coloring matter affects the egg the same as lack of 
grass affects the color of butter. True it is that yel- 
low corn will give us the desired color, but if we feed 
it largely to yarded fowls, then we will not get the eggs. 
Cotton-seed meal gives us a good yellow yolk, but that 
is also fattening, and should be fed with care. The 
only thing to do is to feed plenty of green food and a 
little yellow corn and cotton-seed meal if we must have 
yellow-yolked eggs. The customer will seldom find 
fault on this account, providing he is sure the eggs are 
strictly fresh, but if he does then try to remedy the de- 
fect. 

It is stated that a good hen will produce five or six 
times her weight of eggs in a year. The average weight 
of an egg is two ounces, and about 12 per cent, of it is 
shell. 

Under chemical analysis we find these elements: 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 81 

White. Yolk. 

Water 85.4 50.6 

Nitrogenous substances 12.9 16.1 

Fat 3 31.4 

Other non-nitrogenous matter 8 .5 

Ash 6 1.4 



100. 100. 

The yolk contains less water than the white, and 
nearly all of the fat and the larger proportion of ash 
(mineral matter). The ash, w^iich consists of potash, 
soda, etc., is best seen in the following table: 

White. Yolk. 

Potash 31.4 9.3 

Soda 31.6 5.9 

Lime 2.8 13.0 

Magnesia 2.8 2.1 

Oxide of iron 6 1.7 

Phosphoric acid 4.4 65.5 

Sulphuric acid 2.1 

Silicia 1.1 .9 

Chlorine 28.8 1.6 

The white is therefore rich in alkalies, potash and 
soda, a part of the latter being present as common salt. 
The yoke is extremely rich in phosphoric acid and car- 
ries a large amount of lime — in fact it is the part that 
contributes largely to the formation of bone. 

Chemists have figured out the amount of fertility 
taken away from the soil in different crops. Thus, 
1,000 pounds, or 6QQ dozen of hen's eggs, shells in- 
cluded, contain about the following quantities: 

Pounds. 

Nitrogen 20. 

Potash 1.75 

Lime 60.82 

Phosphoric acid 4.22 



82 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

Now we see that 8,000 eggs, worth at least $160, 
takes only about $3.56 worth of fertility from the farm. 
Let us contrast this with other crops sold off the farm, 
$160 worth of each: 

Eggs $3 56 

Wheat 42 28 

Milk 14 08 

Cheese 11 04 

Live Cattle 18 88 

Timothy Hay 95 84 

If we sell $160 worth of wheat, $42.28 worth of fer- 
tility goes off the farm. If we feed this to the hens 
and sell the same amount of eggs, only $3.56 worth of 
fertility goes. When we sell eggs, we sell largely 
water, which is given in the first table. 

It is also stated that a good cow may produce in a 
year six times her weight in milk, with a calf in addi- 
tion. If we take the cow as weighing 1,000 pounds, 
we have in the salable product about 800 pounds of 
dry matter, containing 36.8 pounds of nitrogen. Hens 
of good laying breeds weighing 1,000 pounds will yield 
in the same time 6,000 pounds of eggs, the contents of 
which will include 1,404 pounds of dry matter, con- 
taining 120 pounds of nitrogen. It has often been 
pointed out that since cows' milk is much richer in 
nitrogen than the carcass of an animal, so the food 
supplied to cows in full milk should be of a specially 
nitrogenous character. The argument has still greater 
weight in the case of the hen, as we have just seen 
that her produce, in the same time, from the same body 
weight, contains three and one-quarter times as much 
nitrogen as that of the cow. The albuminoid ratio of 
eggs is, indeed, as high as 1:1.82. Under natural con- 
ditions, a fowl's diet is in the summer time of a decided 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 33 

nitrogenous character, the food consisting largely of 
(grass) insects, worms, etc. The advantage of giving hens 
agood'^run" is well-known; this is partly due to the ac- 
tive exercise obtained, which is essential for the contin- 
uance of the egg-laying condition, but is also in part 
owing to the supply of insect food which the hens thus 
obtain. 

It will be seen in the above that the old-fashioned 
way of feeding hens on grain alone must be discontin- 
ued, if we wish to make our poultry pay, and meat and 
bone must be supplied, especially in winter. Wheat 
and corn are too carbonaceous, and while a little is ex- 
cellent, yet we will have to balance the ratio with more 
nitrogenous foods. 

EFFECTS OF YARDING FOWLS. 

The very nature of fowls and the fact that small 
flocks pay the best, makes it necessary for the poultry- 
man who keeps a large number to yard them. 

Yarded fowls, if properly handled, will lay more eggs 
during an entire year than those running at large. 
This is so because, in the former case, the poultryman 
can determine to a nicety just how much to feed and 
the variety to give. It is impossible to know how 
much a fowl will gather during the day when running 
at large, and therefore the poultryman is liable to either 
overfeed or underfeed. 

Most people who are not expert in feeding yarded 
fowls, overfeed and provide too little exercise. 

While yarded fowls will give the best result in egg 
yield, they will also give the poorest result when the 
eggs are used for hatching. 
3 



34 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

Few people realize the importance of thoroughly 
healthy, vigorous stock when used as breeders. The 
eggs are usually blamed, or the hen did not set good, 
when the root of the matter could be traced to the 
breeders. Fowls are under a constant strain while lay- 
ing, and in order to retain perfect vitality they must 
roam the fields, gathering here and there a mite of 
nature's food and gaining needed exercise and fresh 
air. True, if they are overfed they will not take proper 
exercise, and the result is a lot of lazy fowls who hang 
around fence corners and whose eggs will give poor re- 
sults when used for hatching purposes. 

Where more than one breed is kept on a place (the 
majority of fanciers keep several breeds), it becomes 
necessary to yard them. From ten to twenty fowls are 
kept in each yard. Very often these yards are small 
and bare, thus making fertile, strong-germed eggs al- 
most impossible ; neither is the condition improved to 
any great extent when the yards are of a fair size and 
have grass or other green stuff growing in them. True, 
this last is better than the former, but it is not unlim- 
ited range. The colony plan can not be followed in 
these cases. The only plan that will work fairly satis- 
factorily is to give partial free range by letting one pen 
run out in, say, the forenoon and another pen in the 
afternoon. The next day keep these pens up while 
two other pens have an outing. If more than four 
pens are kept, then the houses should be built far apart, 
in blocks of four, or if the land is so divided that two 
pens can be let out in different parts at one time, so 
much the better. To better illustrate the subject we 
will give a plan that, with a few modifications, can 
be put to practical use on many farms. Here we have 
the long house containing eight pens and eight yards. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



35 



line: 



^i^^yx:"^, 



\X5> C\.^V 



\^ 



FZNCE G 



J L 



\«ao 



LINE 



G FENCE 



The four line fences can run straight out from the house 
east, west, north and south, and by making them some 

two hundred yards 
long the fowls will 
seldom, if ever, go 
round them and thus 
get mixed. These 
line fences can have 
convenient gates, so 
that they will cause 
very little incon- 
venience, and the 
ground can be tilled 
right up to the small 
yards. If they are in grass the fowls will do it no 
harm and much good. If corn is to be planted, then 
the fowls can be kept out after the ground has been 
plowed until the corn gets knee high, when they can 
be turned in again to advantage to the corn crop. 

Pens Nos. 5, 7, 10, 12 can run alternately in fields 
Nos. 1 and 2, while pens Nos. 6, 8, 9, 11 can run out 
in fields Nos. 3 and 4. Thus the entire eight pens can 
have unlimited range a part of each day. We have 
tried this plan and it works very nicely. It is surpris- 
ing how closely a flock, say fifteen birds, will stay to 
their house, and the only way to keep them out of their 
small yards and houses is to feed very little for their 
morning feed, thus forcing them to seek their food in 
the fields. Remember, it is the active bird that lays 
the strong-germed eggs, and activity is fostered by a 
craving for food when it can not be found in a feed box. 
The natural division of many farms, on account of 
buildings, yard fences, etc., makes it easy to give an 
outiug to this or that flock if we are wise enough to 



86 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

place our roosts in such positions as to take advantage 
of them. 

A great many object to devoting large space for poul- 
try runs or yards, but the progressive poultry man will 
grow fruit above and fowls below. An apple 
Fruit and orchard, especially an old one, is an excel- 
lent place for poultr3^ Build the yard so as 
to give one or Wo large trees to each yard. The trees 
will do far better under this treatment than any other, 
but wdien the apples commence to fall they should be 
gathered up, for too many apples will decrease the 
number of eggs. Fruit trees of all kinds do well in 
the poultry yard, and beside being useful for shade, 
will return a good profit from their fruit. In fact, 
fruit farming and poultry travel hand in hand, and 
will greatly add to the yearly income. There is noth- 
ing that will do better in the poultry yard than small 
fruit, such as blackberries and raspberries. The young 
plants will require a little protection until they get a 
good start, but after that they require no care, for the 
hen supplies the fertilizer and does all the tending. 
As the berries enlarge they should be protected with 
wire netting, or the fowls can be turned out until the 
crop is gathered. Those who have tried this method 
report that the fruit is abundant, large and fine fla- 
vored. Grapevines should be trained along the fences, 
projecting a part of the way in and over the yard, thus 
not only giving a fine crop up out of the way of the 
fowls, but providing excellent shade as well. If natu- 
ral shade is wanting, than erect a trellis. Drive two 
rows of posts in the ground, running them east and 
west; along the top of each row run a board and throw 
on cross pieces. Cover with straw, cornstalks or any- 
thing that will cast a shadow, Strong rouslia or sail 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 37 

cloth is also good. In short, provide shade or sfeU the 
fowls. An out-door scratching place can be erected 
under this shade. Have the sides about eighteen 
inches or two feet high, and throw theredn any kind of 
litter to the depth of eight inches. A box 14x18 feet 
is about right for fifteen to twenty fowls. 

It will be noticed that certain breeds lay larger eggs 
than others, and different members of the same family 
Size and ^^^ different sized eggs. The color also 
Color of varies. The smaller, or Mediterranean class, 
Eg'g's- laying a white-shelled egg, while the medium 

and heavier varieties lay a dark-shelled egg. Some 
markets — Boston, for instance — pay a better price for 
dark colored eggs, while others, like New York, pre- 
fer a white egg. The brown-egg varieties lay eggs of 
various colored brown; some will be very dark, while 
others will be nearly white. This can be partly over- 
come by setting eggs that are a uniform brown color. 
Produce just what your market will pay the most for. 

The Minorcas and Black Spanish, among the white- 
egg breeds, lay the largest eggs, while the Brahmas 
head the list among the dark-colored-egg breeds. 

It is possible to build up a large-egg strain, but it 
will require some years to do it. Set only large, well- 
shaped eggs of the desired color, repeating each year 
thereafter. 

The cock is half the flock, and he should be of the 
same strain as the hens, or else your work will be to no 
purpose. In order not to in-breed too closely, have 
two pens and keep the chickens separate by marking 
those from each yard when hatched by punching a 
hole in the web between the toes with the little punch 
that is made for this purpose. One year use the pul- 
lets from one pea and mate them to the cockerels from 



38 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

the other pen and vice versa. A strain of excellent layers 
can also be improved by selecting the eggs for setting 
from hens that are known to be prolific layers. This 
last will require somewhat of personal watchfulness, of 
course. If we do not wish to bother w^ith two families 
of the same breed, then we can get a neighbor to go in 
with us. Start with birds not related, and then after 
a year or two interchange males, thus keeping up the 
vigor of the strain. Of course only the very choicest 
males will be used as breeders, paying particular atten- 
tion to health and strong development. A strain may 
mean much or nothing. The term strain, as used by 
poultrymen, means keeping in line; breeding together 
fowls from, originally, the same parents, not neces- 
sarily brothers and sisters, but family ties must be 
preserved, and the more remote the connection the bet- 
ter for the future health of the offspring. The novice 
should not enter on this line, but introduce new and 
distinct blood every year or every second year at least. 
In-breeding does not tend to strong development. It 
merely fixes desirable points. *^Like begets like.'* 

A STUDY ON ARRANGEMENT. 

In planning a poultry plant, great care should be 
exercised as to arrangement of the buildings and 
house, or it will soon be seen that a great mistake has 
been made, and extra w^ork and expense will have to 
be incurred in order to remedy the defects. Not only 
is it necessary to arrange things conveniently on a 
large farm, but it is just as cheap and almost as im- 
portant to have things arranged " handy to the house" 
on a small farm, or where only one or two hen roosts 
are used. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



39 



We have prepared two plans that may prove of serv- 
ice to some of our readers. Plan No. 1 shows how we 
arrange our houses and runs. Our hrooder-house is 

117 feet long, with the feed and boiler- _ ^/f 

room on the east end. The roadway, 
running out east from the feed-room, 
has a fence along its south side with 
the double houses (see cut of same 
elsewhere) as shown, but the north 
fence and row of houses are not yet 
up, but that is how we intend to ar- 
range them sometime. Thus we have 
roadway and gates so we can drive a 
team through and thus cart litter, 
sand, or remove droppings and dirt. 
We have a number of houses scattered 
around in inconvenient places, which 
were built before we had an idea of 
entering largely in the poultry busi- 
ness. We now see what costly mistakes were made. 
We expect to run water through these yards, as shown 
in Plan No. 2. The plan explains itself. The attend- 
ant can load his feed and water in a cart, go down 
one side and back on the other ; thus he will not have 
to take a single unnecessary step. 

Plan No. 2 is taken from a plant situated near En- 
glishtown, N. J., which we had the pleasure of visiting 
several years ago. The yards occupied a rough, tri- 
angular piece of ground, as shown. The highway 
came down to the end of the field and then branched 
off on either side. The party only owned the land 
between tlie roads, therefore his arrangement was wisely 
made. The wind-mill raised the water up in a large 
tank, whence it was conducted in pipes (underground) 




40 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



/i/»/y A" 2 



down the line, each house having a small tank sunk 
a little in the ground and pure, running water there- 
in at all times. It is 
a great saving in la- 
bor, and cool water 
can be had by the 
fowls at all times. 
There are more houses 
than those shown in 
the plan. The houses 
are of the open-front, 
scratching shed plan, 
and accommodate 
from fifteen to twent}"- 
five fowls each. We 
would judge the yards 
to be about twenty or 
twenty-five feet wide, 
and varying from 
twenty to forty yards 
in length. There are 
also other buildings not shown in the plan. 

It is no more expense to arrange things conveniently 
than otherwise, and yet it costs less, in time, to care 
for our fowls properly when we have things as they 
should be. Of course, these plans would not be suit- 
able for every one. The lay of the land and distance 
from the residence will have to be considered. Then, 
again, if the colony plan is followed and no fences are 
used the houses will have to be situated far apart. In 
this plan only place 100 hens on an acre of land, using 
four houses. Of course, no cocks should be used if 
fights are to be avoided, and hens are expected to ''go 
home to roost." 




CHAPTER IV. 

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION THE INCUBATOR TESTING THE 

EGG THE THERMOMETER TURNING EGGS MOISTURE. 

After we have been successful in raising chickens in 
the natural way, and can keep our hens in a healthy 
condition, and laying during the winter season, then 
we may look into the artificial method a little, for. this 
is the only practical method if we enter the poultry 
business on a large scale, and expect to devote all our 
time to it. 

Artificial incubation was practiced by the ancient 
Egyptians, and is so conducted, not only in Egypt, but 
in China, at the present day. There the climate, or 
temperature, is very even and near the degree required 
to hatch the egg. Therefore, large rooms are devoted 
to the hatching process, very little artificial heat being 
required. Incubators have been in use in England, 
France and Germany for nearly a century, but in this 
country we have only had them about thirty-five years. 
These early machines did not prove successful. The 
first really successful machines were built between 1870 
and 1880. In fact, Mr. James Rankins, the great duck 
raiser, built the first successful machine as late as 1880, 
but incubators did not come in general use in this 
country until about 1885 to 1890. Without a doubt 
there have been more machines built and sold since 1890 
tlian during all the years previous to that date. While 
artificial incubation is a comparative success to-day, 
yet we believe new and improved methods are to fol- 

(41). 



42 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

low, and especially is this so along the line of brooding 
after the hatching period is safely passed. It would be 
strange, indeed, if among all the various inventions 
that are to follow, artificial incubation and rearing were 
to be allowed to stand still. Certainly there is a chance 
for improvement. 

The first thing to consider is the incubator. There 
are many good machines on the market. If we have 

no knowledge in this direction we should 
Incubator send for the catalogues of several leading 

makes of machines, and then make our selec- 
tion. Do not consider the price, but try to get the best 
according to the light we have. They all are regulated 
fairly well, but some do not supply air enough during 
the latter part of the hatch, therefore select one with 
large ventilators. Small ventilating pipes are apt to 
get clogged with spider webs, and it is next to impos- 
sible to clean them out without ripping the machine 
op^n. 

A dry, well ventilated cellar is an excellent place to 
set up a machine. Large operators build a room which 
is half under and half out of the ground, and the inner 
walls are plastered. The object is to get as even a 
temperature as possible, for any sudden change from 
warm to cold or cold to warm will affect the machine, 
no matter what the manufacturer may say to the con- 
trary. Sixty degrees is a good temperature, but the 
main point is evenness. Have the room well ventil- 
ated, but be sure there are no draughts directly on the 
machine, neither should the sun's rays be allowed to 
strike it. Keep the room sweet-smelling and the air 
pure. Set the machine perfectly level and solid, so 
that there will not be any jar, although we have had 
machines to hatch well when set on a fioor where there 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 43 

was much walking and some pounding, with a varied 
temperature, but the best plan is to avoid all this as 
much as possible. Other things being equal, the eggs 
are the direct cause of good or poor hatches, and the 
hens that lay the eggs are at the root of the whole mat- 
ter, while the owner of the hens has it within himself 
to cause success or failure. We have already told how to 
care for the hens. It is important for the operator to 
raise his own eggs. It is far cheaper, and then he has 
the power to raise eggs from any variety or grade he 
chooses, and to have fertile eggs that will hatch if he 
has done his part faithfully. 

Let us go briefly over this ground again. The first 
thing to consider is the variety. Wyandottes, Plym- 
outh Rocks and Brahmas are the varieties most used 
for broilers or roasters. These are all yellow-skinned 
fowls, and that is what the American people want. 
True, the New York market — the best trade — is de- 
manding white skin, but that is largely owing to the 
high-toned hotels and restaurants, where French cooks 
are employed. White-skinned fowls being most de- 
sired in France and England. If we prefer grades 
then we can recommend a cross of Indian Game cock 
on White Wyandotte or Brahma hens, or White or 
Buff Leghorn male on Plymouth Rock or Brahma fe- 
males. The pure Indian Game is an ideal table fowl, 
but the pullets grow much slower than the cockerels. 
In general take a male from any of these varieties, In- 
dian Game, Dorking, Leghorn or Houdan, and cross 
them on Wyandotte, Plymouth Rock, Cochin or Brah- 
ma females and we will get a good growing chick. Get 
a perfectly developed frame, keep in perfect health 
(not too fat or too poor), and have bright active cocks, 
and the egg will be sure to produce healthy, quick- 



44 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

growing chickens. Never let eggs get chilled, and do 
not keep them over three weeks before setting. The 
fresher they are the better. If kept over one week be 
sure to turn them half over three or four times a week. 
Fill up the machine, but do not over-crowd it. Run 
the machine according to the printed directions. Incu- 
bator catalogues give very full details as to the opera- 
tion of the machine and many other points, therefore 
we will run over this part very briefly. One hundred 
and three degrees is the proper temperature to main- 
tain, but we prefer to keep it at 102° the first week, and 
then the balance of the time at 103°. After the chicks 
commence to pip the shell run the heat down to 102°, 
and after all are out run it down to 100° and keep it 
there about twelve hours before removing the chicks. 

We prefer to test the eggs on the seventh and four- 
teenth days. By the seventh day we can not only re- 
move the infertile eggs, but also the weak 
the E&-S g^i'i^s — those eggs that had vitality enough 
to start, but not enough to carry them 
through. These last can easily be picked out after a 
little practice by comparing them with the fertile ones. 
The novice should mark all doubtful eggs, and after 
the hatch these should be opened and notes taken. In- 
fertile eggs are of course perfectly clear. By the sev- 
enth day a live egg will show a small black spot with 
red veins running out therefrom in all directions and 
partly filling the egg. The dead germ will show prob- 
ably the same, only the development will not be so 
complete, according to the date of the germ's death. 
Again, the egg may have a dark or addled appearance, 
and the contents mass at the top as the egg is slowly 
turned, or a few red veins may be seen to adhere to the 
inside of the shell, while the balance of the egg will 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 45 

appear clear. Remove all such, for it is very impor- 
tant to have the thermometer rest on a live egg. At the 
last testing take out all the eggs that are not properly 
developed. At this stage the egg ought to be nearly 
opaque. True, the dead germ will look similar to the 
live one, but the contents will turn as the egg is turned, 
and a little experience will teach us what eggs to re- 
move with tolerable certainty. 

A good, inexpensive egg tester is necessary, whether 
w^e set eggs in incubators or under hens. If three or 
more hens are set at one time, by using the 
Es^^Tester. tester we can give all the good eggs to two 
or more hens and then re-set those that have 
no eggs. It is a great saving of time and hens. There 
is no use in letting a hen set three weeks on a lot of 
infertile eggs. 

This tester is made out of an old stiff paste- 
board box. Take the bottom of the box and 
bend it round and tack or sew the ends together. 
Make it large enough around so you can slip it 
down over a common lamp chimney. Cut a 
hole in the pasteboard, opposite the lamp flame, about 
the size of an egg. Cut notches in the bottom so as to 
give the lamp plenty of air. Light the lamp, slip over 
the tester, and by holding the egg up to the hole side- 
wise you can see through it without trouble. Eggs can 
be tested the fifth day, but beginners ought to test on 
the seventh day. 

The thermometer is a very important factor in oper- 
ating an incubator. If it is not correct then we can not 
^ expect success. Always buy thermome- 
mometer." *®^^ ^^ ^^ incubator manufacturer, and one 
that is guaranteed correct. Cheap thermome- 
ters are a delusion. Have nothing to do with them. If 



46 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

possible, test your thermometer even when guaranteed 
correct, and each year have them tested, for possibly 
they may be incorrect. Not only should we know that 
the thermometer is correct, but also whether the heat 
is uniform in all parts of the egg trays of the machine. 
In order to test this we should have three or four ther- 
mometers that register alike, and place these in all 
parts of the egg tray, changing them frequently so that 
all parts will be tested. If there is over one degree dif- 
ference or variation the machine should be rejected. 
If correct, or a variation of, one degree is noticed, then 
by reversing the trays and changing the position of the 
eggs at each turning we can equalize the temperature 
and all will be well. It is well to do this anyway. The 
proper place for the thermometer is near the center of 
the machine, and placed so that the ( | ' j;iiiJ M i|iiiiij|i[|it| q ( 
bulb will rest upon and between two _j L- 
fertile eggs. Push the bulb down until the top comes 
on a level with the top of the eggs. Keep the face 
turned towards the front of the machine and raise the 
top of scale up so that the degree of heat can be seen 
without opening the glass doors of the egg chamber. In 
order to keep the thermometer in the proper position we 
make a little stand of wire, as shown in cut. The wire 
is bent in the form of a letter M, the bottom of feet ex- 
tending out and resting on the bottom of the Qgg tray. 
It is made high enough so as to just raise the thermom- 
eter scale above the eggs at about 100°. It is a very 
tandy little affair; any one can make it in two minutes. 
The reason for placing the bulb of the thermometer be- 
tween two fertile eggs is because the eggs, as they com- 
mence to develop, throw off heat of their own, and 
therefore at, say, the eighteenth day, the artificial heat 
in the machine will be very much lower than at the 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 47 

commencement of the hatch, for each egg will be gen- 
erating a small amount of heat, and if the lamp flame 
is not lowered then the egg chamber would get too 
hot. We recommend two eggs, for if only one is used 
to rest the thermometer bulb on it might die and thus 
lower the thermometer. Do not place the bulb on top 
of an egg, for, it being thus above the egg it would give 
a false temperature. As it is, in most machines there 
is a variation between the top and bottom of the eggs 
of one degree, and there should be. Be sure to use 
fertile, live germed eggs. In order to be sure, test sev- 
eral eggs every few days and mark them ; thus we can 
know just what eggs to put our thermometer between. 
Remove the tray from the machine and place it on a 
stand, table or anything convenient. Take out a few 
eggs from one end of the tray, place them on 

Sie^Eo-s-s *^P ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^* *^^ center and gently roll 
the eggs to this end, when the eggs at the 
center will drop in place; repeat this operation at the 
opposite end of tray. Thus all the eggs will be turned 
half over, if carefully done, and the position of each 
egg will be changed, counteracting any possible varia- 
tion of the heat of the egg chamber. If the room is 
cold, perform this operation as quickly as possible, but 
if warm, then more time can be taken, thus airing the 
eggs. No other airing is necessary, for this operation 
is performed twice a day— as near twelve hours apart as 
possible — and thus the eggs will get all the fresh air 
necessary. 

The moisture question has always caused more or less 
trouble, and will so continue for years to come, proba- 
The Moist- ^^ly. Experience thus far has taught us to 
lire Ques- rely more on the ventilators than on the 
tion. moisture pans. 



48 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

The location of the machine and the outside temper- 
ature will have to be considered first. It is a well- 
known fact that the greater the difference between the 
inside and outside of the machine the more air will pass 
through. The air as it becomes hot inside the machine 
will naturally rise and expand and thus be forced out, 
while the cold air from outside will rush in, for nature 
can not allow a vacuum. When the outside tempera- 
ture is high, thus nearer the temperature inside the 
machine, there will be less artificial heat, therefore less 
inside expansion, which very much lessens the rush of 
air through the ventilator ; therefore we can give more 
ventilation during warm weather than during cold 
weather. 

The egg itself should teach us how to ventilate for 
the drying down of the egg is the only guide to the 
moisture supply. This drying down process is really 
enlarging the air space. A freshly laid egg has little 
or no air space, but as the process of incubation pro- 
gresses this air space gradually enlarges, as shown in 
the cut, until the nineteenth day when it should occu- 
py nearly a quarter of the entire space. We usually 
commence by giving plenty of ventilation, and after 
the seventh day giving more or less — usually less — un- 
til the eighteenth day when the moisture pans are 
placed in the machine. The evaporation of the egg 
can be plainly seen w^ith the aid of 
the egg tester. Every five days a 
few (say a dozen) eggs should be 
examined to see if the evaporation is 
proceeding, as shown in the cut. If 
too rapid then close the ventilators 
a little ; if too slowly open them. Moisture is supplied 
just before the eggs pip so as to soften the inside skin 




PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 49 

or lining of the egg and thus make it possible for the 
chick to get out. The reason for this drying down is to 
allow the chick room to expand and turn in, for just 
before he pips the shell he expands or suddenly grows 
and if too much moisture has been supplied he will 
grow too large before the nineteenth day and therefore 
when he comes to expand he will not have room 
enough left inside of his prison in which to turn, there- 
fore, he can not crack the shell all around. Death fol- 
lows. A healthy chick will turn clear over in the 
shell, cracking as he goes, and finally, with a vigorous 
kick, liberates himself and steps out into the world. 

On the other hand, if too much ventilation has been 
given then the egg will dry down too much, thus 
dwarfing the chick and rendering the lining too tough 
for him to break through. There are many causes why 
chicks die in the shell, some of them are : Too much 
or too little moisture, irregularity of heat in the egg 
chamber, too high or too low temperature, stale eggs, 
eggs from sickly or inbred hens, eggs from over-fat 
hens, lack of vigor in cocks, lack of exercise with 4he 
hens, lack of uniformity in egg shell. In short the 
breeding stock is as important as the machine. Some 
eggs are porous at the large end and others have weak 
spots in the shell, thus evaporation is greater. 
4 



CHAPTER V. 

THE BROODER- — BROODING HOUSES FEEDING. 

The method of brooding is of vast importance. It is 
often easier to hatch the chicks than it is to raise them. 
On Large plants the brooding house is from 100 to 200 
feet long by from 12 to 15 feet wide. Atone end is the 
feed room, and this also contains the hot water heater 
that supplies heat to the brooders. Along the back or 
north side of this long building runs a walk or passage, 
usually three and one-half feet wide. Along the front 
side of this passageway run the brooders. This brooder 
is simply a long box two or three feet wide, and extend- 
ing the length of the house. Along the top and just 
under the cover run the hot water pipes which supplies 
the desired degree of heat. Inside of the brooder the 
space is divided into five-foot lengths, and the space in 
front of them is divided by a fence to correspond to the 
brooder divisions, thus each space or pen inside of the 
house is 5 feet wide by 7 or 9 feet long. Outside of 
the house the yards are usually 5 feet wide by 16 feet 
long. The stove that supplies heat to the brooders 
burns coal. The whole outfit is supplied by incubator 
manufacturers. 

Another method is to use individual brooders, heated 
by a lamp, in place of the coal stove and hot water 
pipes. This is better for a small house where only a 
few brooders are needed, but too expensive for a long 
building. Coal is cheaper than oil. Both of these 

(50) 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



51 



methods are good, and are used by those who go in for 
early winter broilers, but it is not the ideal method for 
raising stock birds. It is all right for cold weather, 
but as spring and warm weather approaches con- 
ditions change. Chicks will bear confinement during 
cold weather (it is the only way they can be successfully 
raised at such times), but with warm weather we must 
prepare for the changed conditions and give the chicks 
their freedom. For this reason we strongly advocate 
the individual house and brooder. Outdoor brooders 
are preferable, and for early spring the small house is 
an additional protection. 

These houses can be made light and cheap, so that 
they can be moved from one place to another as desire 
or need presents. Build these houses about five by six 
feet on the ground, with the back about two feet and 
the front five feet high. After the chicks get old 
enough to do without the brooder it can be removed 
and roosting poles put in. These poles should be not 
less than four inches wide and twelve inches above the 
ground floor. Move 
the coop every other 
day to fresh ground. 
Each house will ac- 
commodatelOO chicks 
until they are three 
months old, when 
they should be di- 
vided into two flocks. --^^:J;»i^MH/v^Cri^v>^;!^3^^>Ni^j 

If room is lacking these houses can be placed as close 
to each other as 50 feet, but give each flock all the 
room possible. Of course, these houses should be far 
enough removed from older fowls so that there will be 
no mixing. Brooder chicks have two decided ad van- 




52 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

tages over the natural method, viz.: Free from lice and 
gapes. We have never had a case of gapes among our 
brooder chicks, although other cliicks with hens have 
had it when raised only a few yards away from, the 
brooder chicks. The reason for this is that the brooder 
chicks are always fed on a clean board inside of the 
brooder house, and thus have failed to pick up the 
gape worms or their eggs. Gape worms breed only in 
moist earth and during w^arm weather. We have 
placed chicks in our long brooder house as late as May, 
and after they were two weeks old have taken away the 
fences and allowed them full liberty, and yet they failed 
to get the gapes while running on infected ground. 

Some writers claim that brooder-raised chicks never 
attain the perfection of build and feather that natural 
raised chicks attain. This is doubtless so where the 
forcing method is practiced or where the chicks are 
raised during the winter or unnatural season. When, 
however, we use the individual house and brooder, and 
give tlie chicks free range in the fields (we refer to 
spring hatches) and feed for a natural rapid growth, 
then the brooder chicks will usually outstrip the nat- 
ural raised ones and prove better specimens for either 
breeding or exhibition, providing intelligence has been 
used. Brooder-raised chicks can not surpass natural- 
raised ones when both are handled in the proper way, 
but far too often the hen is supposed to perform part of 
the owner's duties in connection with her own, and 
thus the chicks will suffer from this neglect more than 
the brooder chicks, for the latter will have to be looked 
after more closely. The work in caring for a given 
number of chicks (say 100) is far less under the arti- 
ficial than under the natural method. About ten hens 
will be required to hover 100 chicks. Some hens are 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 53 

cross and some careless. Ten coops will require clean- 
ing, and a great many steps will have to be taken to 
properly attend to their wants, and during storms the 
work is much greater. One hundred chicks in one 
brooder and one house can all be taken care of in a 
very short time, and the saving of feed necessary for 
the ten hens will more than pay for the oil used to 
heat the one brooder. We believe that every farmer 
should own at least one 300-egg size incubator and two 
to five little houses and individual out-door brooders. 
It costs something to start, but these hings will last 
for years, and double the number of chicks could be 
raised each year with less work and worry on the part 
of the good wife. If ' 'mother" desires it, fit her up, 
for she can manage such things far better than the 
average ''good man." We do not advocate women go- 
ing into the poultry business exclusively on a large 
scale. The work is too hard for her strength, but if 
she has the talent and money to hire a "hand}^ man" 
to do the rough work, then we see no objection. We 
do not like to think of "mother" doing such work, but 
it is necessary for a great many women to make their 
own unaided living and to such we would far rather 
see them the proud owners of a poultry plant than 
working in some one's kitchen or sitting all day in a 
close office using a typewriter. 

The proper degree of heat to allow in the brooder is 
a disputed question. Let us start from the incubator. 
The chicks are now about all out of the shell, and the 
heat has run down to 100°, and they should be allowed 
to remain in this temperature about twenty-four hours, 
or until all are hatched and have had a chance to dry 
off and expand their legs and lungs. The brooders 
should be started up several days before the chicks 



54 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

are hatched, so as to have the heat under perfect 
control, and the proper degree, which is 98^. The 
room or nursery should receive proper attention. 
Nearly all large plants have a room set apart for 
this purpose, and the chicks are kept in here for the 
first ten days before they are put in the regular brood- 
ing pens. This room can be fitted up with individual 
brooders, and the run can be the length of the brooder 
and three feet deep. It is necessary to keep this room 
at 70°, even if a stove has to be placed therein for this 
purpose. Plenty of sunshine and good ventilation are 
necessary, but no draught should be allowed to strike 
the chicks. Run the brooder at 98° for the first two 
days, and then lower it to 95°. 

We now have reference to winter-hatched chicks, 
where the business is carried on a large scale. When 
we say to have the brooder at 98°, we mean when the 
chicks are all in it. If the brooder is large the chicks 
will not raise the heat any, but if it is small and tight 
the chicks may raise the heat from two to five degrees, 
so it will only be necessary to have the brooder at from 
90° to 93°, according to size and tightness. Make it a 
point to know all about your brooder and the heat, for 
chicks can not be successfully raised in a varied tem- 
perature. Some writers say that there is no place for a 
thermometer in a brooder, yet w^e always use one or 
more. 

True, the experienced operator can tell how the heat 
is by the action of the chicks. If they sit around com- 
fortably all is well, but if they huddle together then it 
is too cold. If they try to get away from the heat by 
sticking their heads out of the brooder, etc., then it is 
too hot. Sometimes little chicks' will crowd, even if 
all is right, and the operator should separate them be- 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 55 

fore going to bed. The proper way is to test the brood- 
er in all parts (two inches up from the floor) with sev- 
eral true thermometers, and then place — fasten — a ther- 
mometer in such a position so it will give about the 
true heat in all parts. A degree's variation will do lit- 
tle or no harm. 

Tlie second week it should be lowered to 90°, and 
this heat maintained for four weeks, when it can be 
lowered to 85° and then 80°. It is just as important to 
■maintain the proper degree of heat day and night in the 
brooder as it is in the incubator. This is a comparative- 
ly easy thing to do during even weather, but not so 
easy during changeable weather or during day and 
night. Do not roast the chicks during the day, but 
give less heat if necessary. Some brooders are pro- 
vided with a regulator, and it is a convenience, but do 
not rely too much thereon, for we have yet to see a reg- 
ulator that does not require regidating. Before we 
speak of the feed, let us once more study the different 
plans of brooding houses. The one in most favor for 
large plants is the long house. One hundred 
HoTses"^ feet to 200 feet seems to be the length most 
desired, and if this does not provide space 
enough then another one is added. These houses are 
usually 14 feet wide. A room is left at one end, say 
14x12, or longer, as feed and cook room. The brooder 
heater is also situated here. For mixing and cooking 
the food we use a Mott Patent Portable Caldron (thirty 
gallon capacity). We could not get along without it. 
It is very convenient and requires very little wood to 
run it, for it only requires a fire from one to three 
hours a day. This room enters by a door, the walk or 
passage-way which runs the whole length of the brooder 
house and along the back, or north side of the house. 



56 



PRACTICAL rOULTRY CULTURE, 



This walk is most convenient if 3>2 to 4 feet wide. 
Tlie brooder-box runs along the front side of the walk, 
and we prefer them two feet wide. The top should be 
made in five-foot lengths, so as to be readily removed 
should anything require it. The back of brooder 
should be a door (five feet long each) which when lift- 
ed makes it convenient to remove the droppings with a 




m 



ill 




mmm\ mm 



s=J.0t^O 5ROOOI/\/Q H0U'5E. y ~^~^=- 




QROU/VD PLA/V^ 

T scraper, letting them fall in the walk, where they are 
easily swept up and removed. The front of brooders 
should have a three-inch opening, hung with fringe. 
The chicks soon learn to push this aside when entering 
and it helps to keep in the heat. As the chicks grow 
they are moved along away from the stove or warm end 
of the house, and the opening can be deeper, of from 
four to five inches. Along the top of this brooder and 
directly under the cover, run the hot-water pipes. We 
prefer a system using four pipes, three inside the 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 57 

brooders and the fourth, or return pipe, running 
outside the brooder box. The little inside pens 
in front of the brooders are five feet wide and as 
long as the width of the house will allow ; of course, 
the brooders are divided into five-foot spaces to corre- 
spond with the width of the pens. We also prefer three 
tight board partitions, wdth doors in the passage-way, 
in a house 150 feet long. Thus the smaller chicks get 
more warmth from the stove, and these partitions check 
all drafts and make the house warmer. This plan is 
certainly the best and most convenient for winter use, 
but a failure for late hatching. It seems to draw the 
heat, and will get as hot as an oven in spite of every- 
thing. Then again, the chicks, as spring progresses, 
require more freedom and a grass run. Winter chicks 
seem to thrive and fatten in the long house, but will 
do neither in warm or hot weather. In fact, some rais- 
ers have discarded the long house altogether, relying 
solely on small detached houses fitted with outdoor 
brooders. 

One brooder large enough to hold 100 chicks is used 
for every house. These brooders are heated with an 
oil stove or lamp. We do not like them for winter use 
as it requires too much time to feed and care for so 
many, and too much exposure on the part of the at- 
tendant during stormy weather. For spring use they 
are excellent, and especially should they be used by 
those wlio only raise a few hundred chicks. These 
houses should be about 6x8 feet, 3 feet high at rear and 
5 or 6 feet high in front, or any convenient size. Cover 
roof and sides with roofing paper. The window^ should be 
about 3x4 feet and up only four inches from the sill. Put 
the window in lengthwise, so as to get all the sunlight 
possible on the floor. Hang it so it can be readily opened 



58 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

during warm days. The door can also be in the front, 
and a little slide arranged in the bottom of same to al- 
low the chicks liberty daring w^arm, clear days. Place 
in the brooder, and, if large enough, place in 100 
chicks. Another advantage this house has is that as 
the chicks grow the brooder can be removed and the 
house used as a roosting place. These houses should 
be placed out in the field away from old stock, and can 
be moved at the will of the operator — twenty-five yards 
apart will do for small chicks. No fences are used, so 
the chicks will have perfect freedom. Still another 
method is used for April, May and June months. This 
is simply to use the outdoor brooders without houses. 

We prefer the small house, especially if the w^eather 
proves damp and chilly, but good success has followed 
their use, and persons with little capital can safely use 
the outdoor brooders for ordinary spring weather. 

All incubator manufacturers make outdoor and in- 
door lamp brooders. 

Now since we have considered the brooder "houses or 
methods of housing we can turn our attention to feeding. 
Nature has provided the chick with food for 
Feecliiig". ^Yiq first thirty-six hours, as the chick ab- 
sorbs the yolk of the egg just before it breaks the shell 
thus gaining a supply of food as stated above. 

After the chick is thirty-six hours old commence to 
feed by giving dry rolled oat meal (some prefer the 
hard or pin-head oat meal.) For newly hatched chicks 
we confine them to a board about twelve inches wide 
just in front of the brooder. A ware screen runs across 
the front of this board and thus the chicks can not 
wander away from the brooder and get chilled before 
old enough to know how to get back. Five days 
is long enough to confine tbem to this board. Cover 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 59 

the board with coarse sand and sprinkle a little of 
the oat meal on this. Feed every three hours for the 
first two days and arrange it so that the chicks wall 
clean all up at least in an hour before the next feed, 
thus they will not overeat and will also pick up some 
grit or sharp sand, which, is very necessary. This 
board should be cleaned off every day and re-sanded, of 
course. 

The third day commence to feed every two hours and 
let this food be baked the same as bread, or if a porta- 
ble caldron is used then it can first be scalded and then 
baked or cooked until quite dry, stirring frequently to 
keep it from burning. (We find a long-handled light- 
weight spade the most convenient for stirring and mix- 
ing with when the caldron is used.) 

This bread should be composed of the following : 
One quart each of ground corn, wheat middlings, bran 
and ground oats — the hulls being removed. If the oats 
are ground very fine all the heart can easily be sieved 
in the mash. Mix this w^ell while dry and add enough 
milk or water to moisten it ; also, add a little salt. If 
it is to be baked use sour milk and salaratus. Feed this 
dry and only what the chicks will eat up in, say, fifteen 
minutes. Keep pure clean water by the chicks at all 
times. A flower-pot and a saucer makes a good con- 
venient drinking vessel. The hole should be stopped 
up with a cork and a slit about half an inch made in 
the lower edge of the pot w^ith an old saw. Fill the 
pot, place in the saucer and invert quickly, thus about 
half an inch of water will always be around the edge of 
the saucer and the chicks can not wet themselves w^hile 
drinking. It is easily cleaned, which should frequent- 
ly be done. If milk is at hand boil it and use it w^ith 
an equal quantity of water, or half milk and half wa- 



60 PKACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

ter. The vessel will require a washing every day 
though, and a frequent scalding out in order to keep it 
sweet. 

It is best not to give meat or green food for the first 
week. At the beginning of the second week commence 
to feed a very little chopped onion at noon. After the 
second week feed more liberally, or all they wish to eat 
for their mid-forenoon or noon feed. Give chopped 
onion, cabbage or any other green food you have, pro- 
vided it is good. Chopped grass or cured clover hay 
is also excellent. The hay should be cut up very 
fine, one-eighth inch lengths. This should be slightly 
scalded with hot water and let stand tightly cov- 
ered for an hour before feeding. A little bran or 
middlings can be mixed in to dry it up if desired. 
Never feed bran raw, as it is very hard to digest. 
Have little boxes at convenient places in the pens 
near the feeding board, and keep them full of small 
sharp grit, ground bone (coarse), and cracked char- 
coal. We often mix a little ground charcoal in the 
food, for it is an excellent blood purifier and corrector. 
After the first week it is best to mix a little ground 
bone (it must be sweet and good), in the soft mash or 
bread, and after the second week say a handful of pre- 
pared ground meat to a pailful of food should be 
added. The best thing is green bone and meat. This 
should be cut up fine and let it take the place of one 
meal (all they will eat up clean quickly and with a rel- 
ish ) every other day, or three times a w^eek. Stale bak- 
er's bread makes a good change also. Feed the baked 
food until the fourth week, w^hen the food can be 
scalded instead of baked. Be careful to use only 
enough hot water or milk to thoroughly wet the mess, 
and let it stand tightly covered for an hour before feed' 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 61 

ing. Always feed dry food, or as near dry as possible. 
Overfeeding is a serious mistake, for it will soon de- 
range the digestive organs and cause death. It is bet- 
ter to underfeed than overfeed. 

Exercise is another important feature with brooder 
chicks. Have the little pens in front of the brooder 
well littered with finely-cut straw, or better, clover 
hay. Into this scatter pin-head oatmeal or cracked 
wheat, and you w^ill be surprised how early in life the 
chicks will learn to scratch for it. They should be set 
to work the second week, if possible. After the second 
week they should be allowed to run out in the outside 
pen or yard on all nice days unless very cold. After 
they are six weeks old they should be allowed to run 
out every day unless it is actually stormy. Plenty of 
outdoor exercise and fresh air should be the rule at the 
above age. It is a mistake to keep them too w^arm or 
housed up. The brooder should be not lower than 80° 
at six weeks of age, but the house can be down to 50"" 
if necessary. Too much heat will make them delicate. 
They should be made vigorous by plenty of exercise in 
a moderate atmosphere. If the chicks have grown 
as they should they may have whole wheat or cracked 
corn for the night feed when they are a month old and 
thereafter. This feed should be scattered in the litter 
an hour before sundown, so they can find it before 
dark. Be sure they go to roost with a full crop. 

If we are raising for market, the chicks should be 
fed soft food at all ages, feeding hard grain at night 
only. They will thus do better and grow faster, for the 
soft scalded food is more easily digested than the hard 
food. 

A great many people make the serious mistake of 
overfeeding brooder chicks. It is so easy to fill up the 



62 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

feed trough at each feeding time, or giving them enough 
to last them from one feed until the next. It is simply 
suicide to the chicks and to the owner. In order to 
have them grow properly, it is necessary to keep them 
hungry. When you go to feed, they should be hungry 
enough to walk all over you. True, they wiU some- 
times try to do this even if not hungry, but the feeder 
can soon tell how hungry they are. 

Remember you can never fatten chicks by keeping 
food before them at all times. It is just as necessary 
for the fowl's digestive organs to have a rest between 
feeds as it is in the human being. Overfeeding 
tends to indigestion, which is often taken for cholera 
and a number of ills, of which we will speak further on. 

Feed liberally, or what the chicks will eat up in, say, 
half an hour. Thus all will have a chance to get enough 
for the time being. After this meal the chicks will 
soon go to work, thus hastening digestion and prepar- 
ing themselves for the next feed. We have tried feed- 
ing ^abundantly, even keeping food before the chicks 
all the time, and have been surprised to find a large 
part of them go to roost with almost an empty crop. 
Chicks or fowls will stand heavy feeding for about ten 
days, but after that they will commence to go back, 
and especially is this so with brooder chicks when 
they are yarded. If a chick gets good and hungry, 
he will fill his crop before stopping, and as thq food 
digests very rapidly, then we can get them to take a 
full meal three or four times a day, and especially is 
this necessary at the night feed, which should be hard 
food after they are five weeks old. They will thrive all 
the better if they are not allowed a full crop at any feed 
except at night. 

Let us now sum up for convenience. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 63 

Have the brooder at the proper heat at least a da}^ 
before the chicks are due. Let them remain, undis- 
turbed, in the incubator twenty-four hours after hatch- 
ing (some recommend thirty-six hours), and then feed 
rolled oats, as previously stated, changing to rolled 
oats in the morning and bread the rest of the day. 

When four weeks old, the food may be scalded in- 
stead of baked, and the night feed may be whole or 
cracked wheat, cracked corn and Kaffir corn. Kaffir 
corn is an excellent food for old or young fowls. It is 
sown in drills the same as fodder corn, and is tended 
the same. It yields abundantly, surpassing corn, and 
if it is headed can be threshed the same as wheat. One 
head will often shell two large handfuls. The grain is 
about the size of a large grain of wheat, only it is 
round. 

Exercise is very important to health and growth, 
and this should be encouraged by keeping the pen well 
littered. After five weeks of age, the soft mash may be 
composed of ground corn, wheat middlings, and finely 
ground oats, equal parts, to which maybe added a pint 
of ground meat and bone to ten quarts of the mixture. 
If we are feeding green cut bone, then the prepared 
meat should be left out. It is well to add a pint 
of linseed meal also, for it is an excellent food, only it 
is too rich to be used freely. Boiled small potatoes 
sliould form the noon feed three days a week from four 
weeks of age on. Finely cut clover hay should always 
form at least one-third of the bulk, and the measure 
should be pressed down and running over. If the pens 
are littered frequently with clover hay, then none need 
be fed in the soft mash, and this we consider the 
better way to feed it. Little green food must be fed 
if hay is given. This method of feeding can be con- 



64 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

tinned until the chicks are nearly ready for market, 
when the mash should be largely ground corn, and 
the meat and linseed meal may be increased somewhat, 
but not enough to produce diarrhea. Should the feed 
produce diarrhea at any stage of growth, then it should 
he changed immediately, but the cause of diarrhea is 
usually lack of heat in the brooders or an irregular 
heat. Keep plenty of good sharp grit constantly before 
the chicks; also charcoal and cracked bone. Feed on 
a clean board, and clean it off before each feed. Do 
not put over 100 chicks in a brooder when first hatched. 
When they reach four weeks of age, or even three 
weeks, separate them and put only fifty in a brooder. 
In separating put all the strongest ones by themselves, 
otherwise they will crowd out and trample the weaker 
ones. Thin out the chicks as stated above or they will 
take things into their own hands and drop out by death. 
The feed board should be long enough so that all the 
chicks can get to it at once and not crowd. We use a 
boXrd six inches wide and six to seven feet long. A 
lath is nailed around the edges and projects up half an 
inch, thus keeping the food from falling off. In the 
pens where the larger chicks are w^e raise the board up 
about four inches by nailing pieces of boards on the 
under side edgewise. The pieces are longer than the 
width of the board, so that it can not be upset. We 
find a mason's plastering trowel to be the best thing 
out for cleaning off the board. It cuts right down 
to the hard board every time. These boards should be 
kept scrupulously clean, even to the use of soap and 
water occasionally. Provide clean w^ater twice a day. 
Clean the brooder floor off each day, and sand it after- 
wards to keep the droppings from sticking to it (if 
board floors are used ) . The pens should be raked over 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 65 

and droppings removed at least once a month, and 
each fall the little outside yards should be dug up and 
sowed with rye, or better, crimson clover. This will 
purify the ground, and if sown early and thick will 
provide a good picking ground. Even the roots will 
be dug up, thus affording the chicks exercise. 

Mr. Arthur G. Duston is a practical poultryman and 
broiler raiser. He is one of the few who can make 
broilers weigh two pounds each at only eight weeks of 
age. He describes his method in the Reliable Poultry 
Journal, from which we propose to take a few extracts. 

Mr. Duston says: ''We will say that we have de- 
cided on what variety (of fowls) we have decided to 
run. Our eggs are as fresh as possible and of uniform 
size. We have put them in the incubator and, with 
proper care, on the morning of the twenty-second day 
we find the chicks nicely dried off. We now get our 
warm, cloth-lined basket, with a heavy cover or shawl, 
to prevent them getting chilled [very necessary precau- 
tions — Ed.]. 

''Well, we have got them safely, we hope, into the 
brooder, which has been brought up to the temperature 
of the incubator. Of course, we have placed our board 
in slides about a foot outside of the hover, so that the 
babies can not get out in the long pen and not be able 
to find the way back, and thus get chilled. Just bear 
in mind for the first week that to keep them warm is 
more essential than food. 

"The first day of their lives in the brooder has almost 
passed, and they have not eaten anything but sand 
(grit). Night has begun to come on, and it is time to 
feed the hens; but let us first scatter down for the 
babies a liberal supplv of rolled oat meal, the white 
5 



66 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

flakes of which will instantly attract them, and they 
are left to themselves. The next morning, as we turn 
out at daylight, we find them calling for breakfast. 
We touch up the fire, and then a feed of rolled oats is 
given them with a dish of warmed skimmed milk. We 
use an old fruit can for this purpose, with a notch cut 
in one edge. Some of the little fellows that would not 
eat will drink, so you save them along until they will 
eat. That you will save more chicks by giving them 
warmed skimmed milk than by any system of feeding 
grain is my way of thinking. We next powder some 
charcoal, and this is put into a dish and set in for the 
chicks to eat. 

''We are now going to feed every two hours until our 
young charge is turned over to the butcher. For the 
first week you are limited to rolled oats, millet 
twohoursf ^^^^ ^^^^ cracked corn, run through a mill 
to make it fine enough, then sifted to save the 
meal, which, of course, is wasted by throwing it on the 
ground. We have kept milk before them all the time, 
and have carefully washed the dishes twice a day. 
Some think skimmed milk expensive food, but after 
trying it you will be convinced that the increased 
growth that comes by feeding it gives you a good 
profit on it. As we have put into each hover about one 
hundred chicks, we must see that the sand is scraped 
off the top as often as necessary, probably twice the first 
week, which will be increased each week until about 
the third, when we commence to clean them every 
morning. 

''Now the second week we will remove the board (in 
front of the hover) and keep an eye on the chicks to 
see that they do not get lost by staying away from the 
fire too long and thus get chilled. For this week we 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 67 

will feed about the same, only perhaps it will be best to 
try them on a little mash made up of one-third corn meal 
and two-thirds wheat bran, seasoned with salt and red 
pepper. Not much will be eaten, but they will get so 
before the end of the week that they will look for it, as 
you feed your hard and soft grains alternately. The 
third week we always settle down to our regular routine 
to be continued until about ready to market. During 
the second week we have cracked some wheat in our 
mill, so have had that for our extra dish and a change. 
Give corn as a last feed generally. There is one thing 
absolutely imperative. That is to get your chicks out 
on the ground. If it is bright and warm, put them 
out for a few minutes when a week old. Don't let 
them stand 'humped' up and shiver, but make them 
hustle around by driving or feeding a handful of millet 
seed. After the second week they must go out every 
day unless it storms, no matter if it is zero weather. 

''As we enter upon the duties of the third week, we 
will now get our routine started, and will see the chicks 
push along for the next five weeks, at which time we 
hope to see two-pound birds ready for the market. The 
first thing in the morning is a feed of hard grain; then 
comes a feed of chopped raw potatoes (a meat chopper 
with a large holed disc is used for this purpose). Now 
take their food dish and give each pen all they will 
eat. A little later we throw in a little cabbage cut in 
strips, which they will seize and chase each other 
around until it is eaten. This constitutes all the green 
food they have, unless once in a while we may substi- 
titute onions. 

"We have gotten our mash ready for the day, and as 
nine o'clock has come we will feed our first feed of it 
for the day. Only feed what they will eat quickly. 



68 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

At eleven o'clock another feed of the mash. Then the 
dishes are picked up and washed. Again at one and 
three o'clock we feed the mash, and if we have used 
good judgment we have had a hungry mob at each 
feeding. At five o'clock, or before dark, we throw 
down a liberal feed of cracked corn. We follow this 
bill of fare for about four weeks. 

''To come back to the six or eight weeks old chicks, we 
must think of finishing the.m off. We examine them, 

weigh a few, calculate how much flesh can 
Finishing' -^^ made on them in about ten days, for as 

broilers Boston has no use for anything over 
four pounds to the pair. We have fed so much bran 
that, as we lay back the feathers on the breast, we say, 
'They ought to have more color.' How can we get 
it? We know corn (yellow) will do it, but we lose 
time if we drop off from soft feed to hard. Therefore, 
we put into the mash all the cotton seed meal we can 
stir in and not make it ' salvy ' or 'puddingy,' as 
we ^all it. With a little treacle added we have accom- 
plished the result. We now have a fine yellow skin if 
we have not foolishly chosen a blue-blooded carcass; but 
any yellow-legged variety will succumb to the treat- 
ment. I will caution you against feeding this for too 
long a time, say more than two weeks, as the chick will 
get clogged of it, and you can not hold their flesh, to 
say nothing of making any, unless you can keep their 
appetites 'up to the clip.' We have now 'forced' 
the birds for eight weeks, and have obtained what we 
set out for — two-pound broilers at eight weeks. This 
has been successfully accomplished on our farm here 
with White Wyandottes. We have not done quite so 
well with any other variety. By continuing the regu- 
lar feed we have made five and five-eighths pound 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 69 

roasters at fifteen weeks old. One word of caution, 
don't attempt to raise your breeding females under 
such hot-house methods, because you will sacrifice size 
through early maturity, as after a period of forcing, as 
given above, it is no uncommon thing for pullets to lay 
at sixteen weeks old and w^e all know that is enough to 
stop growth. The summing up of the discussion is 
breed, food, care." 

Probably the greatest boom in artificial methods of 
raising chicks was started at Hammonton, New Jersey. 
Mr. P. H. Jacobs, editor of the Poultry Keep- 
Remarks ^^' ^^^^ ^^^^ main mover, and we are indebted 
to him for the first practical light. Mr. James 
Rankin was probably in the field a little earlier, but to- 
day these two men still hold the fort, and can tell you 
more about raising chicks artificially in half an hour 
than almost any one else can in half a day. Hammon- 
ton has seen its day, however, but the many lessons 
learned there have been very beneficial to the poultry 
world. It was there clearly demonstrated that broiler 
raising alone is a failure. Broilers and eggs are all 
right, but broilers, eggs and fruit are better. 

Mr. Pressey was also one of the pioneers in the arti- 
ficial method, and he successfully raised thousands of 
chicks. We will here briefly give his method of feed- 
ing and handling : Mr. Pressey ran his incubator in 
a room on the second floor of his dwelling, but had a 
regular brooder house, with muslin windows (instead 
of glass). He used individual lamp brooders. In a 
recent lecture he made the following statements : 
*' Very much depends on the kind of food given chick- 
ens, how^ prepared and when given. Of course, the 
principal food must be the different grains. Corn alone 
will not make a good chicken ; it is most valuable for 



70 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

its fattening and warming qualities. Wheat contains 
the material for bone, feathers, etc.; oats for muscle. 
So we feed corn, two parts; wheat, one part; oats, one 
part, and we have a fast-growing chicken. Feed either 
of these grains alone and we have all kinds of mon- 
strosities — weak-legged, sore-eyed, no feathers, and 
every conceivable deformity [referring to brooder 
chicks that are yarded — Ed.]. Add to these grains a 
quantity of meat to take the place of insects, which 
form a part of their natural food. See that they have 
plenty of sand or gravel. They have no teeth, and 
must have this grit to grind the food in the gizzard. 
Give oyster or clam shells ground as fine as wheat. 
Keep by them, also, powdered charcoal ; it prevents 
the digestive organs from becoming clogged with soured 
food if they have eaten too much. If all these things 
are provided for them, the sheds kept clean, occasion- 
ally sprinkled with carbolic acid, and once a month 
given a thin coat of w^hitewash, the chicks should keep 
in perfect health. But if any signs of roup or other 
disease to which they are subject should appear, we use 
a liberal supply of Douglas mixture, which is simply 
one pound of sulphate of iron (copperas) and one 
ounce of sulphuric acid dissolved in one gallon of wa- 
ter. Dose, two or three tablespoonfuls to each 100 
chicks in their food or drink for each day until they 
are better." 



CHAPTER VI, 

DRESSING FOR MARKET, PACKING, ETC. GETTING A 

REPUTATION. 

Of course there are two ways of dressing chicks — 
scalding and dry picking. The latter method is the 
one used by all large broiler plants, for it pays, although 
it is the most expensive. It is impossible to pick a 
chick after being scalded and not rub a little of the 
skin off. Wherever the skin is rubbed off the chick 
will turn dark in an hour after picking, and as time 
passes the dark places grow darker and give the chick 
a stale look. On the other hand the dry-picked chick 
will look fresh for days; in fact we have kept dry- 
picked chicks seven days (fall weather and only mod- 
eratel}^ cool) and then sold them to private customers 
and no questions asked. How much longer they would 
have kept we do not know. We only made the experi- 
ment once. There is an art in dry picking. A few 
men have become expert, and can pick a chick clean in 
ten minutes or less, but the average person will require 
twenty minutes. The object is to get the large feathers 
out before life is extinct. After all these feathers are 
removed then the bird is handed over to the pin-feath- 
erers, who are usually women. It is customary to pay 
three cents a bird, and they will average about thirty 
birds per day of ten hours. It takes a lively woman to 
pin-feather fifty chicks a day, although some do it. A 
man who understands it can easily keep four women 

(71) 



72 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

going. It takes one to three minutes to take out all the 
large feathers. 

All the arrangements for picking should be made the 
day before. A long, narrow coop should be arranged 
close to the sticking pole, and this pole should be placed 
near where the pin-featherer is to sit. We nail a pole 
or shingle rib fast to the side of the feed room on end 
of brooder house. This pole projects out about four 
feet. Near the end w^e tie a piece of twine (doubled), 
and this comes down just low enough so that when we 
slip the chick's feet in the slipnoose in the end of the 
string the body of the chick will come down just below 
our shoulders. A high stool can be used to partly sit 
on if desired. As the chick is relieved of its large 
feathers it is passed in the door to the pin-featherers. 
If the weather is hot, then things are moved to a shady 
corner. Thus the sticker has to take but three or four 
steps to either get a chick or pass one along to the wo- 
men. A large barrel (oil barrels after the oil has been 
burhed out are good) stands handy to the pickers (out- 
doors under a window and protected from the sun). 
This barrel is filled with fresh clean water, to w^hich a 
little salt has been added, and as the chick is dressed it is 
thrown in, and should there remain two or three hours, 
but let us return to the killing process. The chicks 
should be shut up the night before in a clean coop with 
board floor. They may be given a supper, but do not 
feed them a particle the day they are to be killed. Some 
writers say they should not be fed for twenty-four hours 
before killing. Probably that is correct, only we 
haven't the heart to let them starve as long as that. At 
any rate the crop should be entirely empty when killed, 
and twelve hours will accomplish this. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. * 78 

The chicks that are to be killed in the morning 
should be placed handy to the killer. The small blade 
of a pocket knife (if sharp) answers well for 
Killing'. sticking. The doomed chick is bound up by 
the feet in the slip noose, and the killer should 
run the backs of the first and second fingers of the left 
hand between one wing and the backs of the third and 
fourth fingers between the other wing. Shut down on 
the wings and with the right hand raise the head and 
place it between the thumb and third finger of the left 
hand ; open the beak and prop it open with the first 
finger of the left hand. The head should be in such a 
position so that the beak will point out from the hand 
and so the roof of the mouth (when opened) will be 
presented full to the killer. Thus we hold the chick 
securely, and by holding tightly and pulling down on 
the string the bird can not move, no matter how hard 
he may try. The right hand is left free to stick and 
pull the feathers. The killer now places the knife in 
the bird's mouth and shoves the point into the brain of 
the bird. This is the particular point in killing. This 
stab should be made in the center of the mouth, be- 
tween the eyes and ears. If correctly done you will feel 
a slight shiver — so to speak — pass through the bird, 
and thus he loses control of the feathers so that they 
can be pulled out by the handful without tearing the 
skin. Remember it all depends on this sticking, and a 
little practice will soon tell how it should be done. 
Draw the knife from side to center on each side at top 
or roof of mouth. These cuts should be made just back 
of the eyes, and if cut sufficiently the blood will run a 
stream out of the mouth. The mouth is then dropped, 
but the thumb and finger of the left hand should still 
hold a few feathers on top of head so the bird can not 



74 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

spatter blood on the killer. All this is done in much 
less time than it takes to tell it, and the feathers should 
be drawn immediately. 

By twisting the wrist of the left hand the breast of 
the bird is brought around to the front, and the feath- 
ers should be removed here first. If they 
Dry Pick- come easy they can be drawn anyhow, but if 
hard then pull all feathers toward the tail or 
up, and only a few at a time. Give the wrist of the 
left hand another twist and bring the back around. 
Remove the tail feathers — by pulling up — and then 
work down the back to the neck. Now pull the feath- 
ers (carefully) from the butts of the wings and parts of 
the neck, then return to the fluff, after which let go 
with left hand and grasp a wing. Pull the short feath- 
ers and then the quills. In this hasty pulling we have 
only drawn the larger feathers and have very probably 
left a good many scattering ones, which can now be 
pufled more leisurely. About this time the bird will 
be going through its death struggles, and it can again 
be held as formerly, while the picking proceeds, and it 
is now ready to be passed to the pin-featherers. If 
done as it should be it will take from one to two min- 
utes to undress him. The pin-featherer is supposed to 
carefully sow up all torn places, if any. This method 
may seem cruel, but it is the only way to get the feath- 
ers off. After the bird has struggled the feathers can 
not be drawn without taking the flesh with them. The 
market demands dry-picked chicks, so dry picked they 
will have to be. Personally we do not believe it is 
cruel at all, for the moment the brain is touched (in 
the first stab) all feeling seems to leave the bird and 
the eyes will close. A fowl never shuts its eyes so long 
as it retains its senses. Of course we do not know for 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 75 

a certainty, but that is the way it appears. As we state 
above the bird should be placed in the barrel of cold 
water immediately after picking. At noon these should 
be washed- — the feet and mouth — and placed in another 
barrel of clean water, in which they may remain over 
night. If the weather is warm ice should be added to 
the water. If the chicks are to be shipped to a distant 
market early next morning and ice to be used then the 
chicks need not be dried, lout if no ice is to be used the 
chicks should be hung up an hour before packing to 
dry. 

Pack in boxes that will hold not over 100 pounds 
each. Place in a layer of clean straw and then a layer 
of chickens. Fold the neck under one wing 
Packing*. ^^^^ press the shoulders well up against the 
straw at sides of box. The chick should rest on the 
breast-bone with the legs straight out. Place in row 
all around the box, then another row behind these, 
shoving the shoulders well up to the tail of the first 
row, but let each chick come between two of the first 
row. If a small space should yet remain place in 
enough chicks to fill it up, but lay these on their sides 
on top of the legs of the other chicks. A thin layer of 
straw can now be used, or the second layer of chicks 
may be placed directly on top of the first layer, and so 
on. Pack as tightly as possible so there will be no 
moving. Fill up remaining space, if any, with straw 
and press on the cover. If ice is used keep the chicks 
in place by nailing in narrow pieces of board, cut so as 
to just fit inside the box, and place the ice (broken up 
rather fine) in these, and be sure to have enough to last 
until chicks arrive in market. The narrow slats will 
keep the chicks from moving as the ice melts. If bar- 



76 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

rels are used then fine ice will have to be worked in be- 
tween the layers of chicks. 

Scalded chicks should be treated in this way also 
after they are dressed. In scalding two points should be 
observed : first, have the chicks as fresh 
Chicks. killed as possible, and second, have the water 
just below the boiling point. Ten or more 
chicks can be hung in a row by the pot at one time. 
Open the mouth and stick as in dry picking, only use 
a larger blade, and run it down deeper, giving it a 
twist before removing, and cut the veins on both sides 
as the knife is withdrawn. Thus the chick will die 
more quickly than when the knife is not twisted. In 
dry picking the object is to retain life until the feathers 
are removed ; but not so in scalding. It is a good plan 
to grasp the chick the same as for dry picking, and 
after he is bleeding freely the feathers can be removed 
from the legs. These feathers come easily, and if not 
scalded retain their skin and color. In scalding take 
the chick by the feet and head and hold under the hot 
water about a minute. When the head is scalded it 
gives the face and comb a whitish, sickly look. Have 
a bench or low table convenient, and tack thereon a 
soft cloth so as to prevent rubbing of the skin. Com- 
mence at the wings, and after removing the large feath- 
ers the balance can be rubbed off with the hand. Take 
the chick by the legs, turn it on one side and remove 
all the large feathers, and then by rubbing the hand 
briskly towards the chick's head all the remaining 
feathers will be removed, including nearly all the pin- 
feathers. It is surprising how quickly a chick can be 
dressed by the rubbing process. Of course great care 
should be used so as not to rub the skin, but in fowls 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 77 

you can slash away without fear. The rubbed places 
will not turn dark so long as they remain in the water, 
nor will they show very badly until they have been 
removed some hours. Scalded chicks are usually 
^' plumped " by being held for a minute or two in boil- 
ing water, and then thrown in cold water. The 
*' plumping" swells out all shrunken places especially 
around the vent, and the cold water holds or fixes these 
parts. 

Very few markets require the chicks to be drawn. 
They should, therefore, be left whole and the feathers 
left on the head and an inch down the neck, it gives 
them a better appearance. Chickens are called ''broil- 
ers" when they dress from 2 lbs. to 4 lbs. per pair. 
Early in the season 1-pound chicks sell best, and as the 
season advances the weight of the chicks should advance. 
The market opens for broilers about February and pays 
fairly until July, w^hile the best prices are realized be- 
tween April 15 and May 15. At that season New York 
usually pays 50 cents to 55 cents per pound, wholesale, 
and chicks may average 4 lbs. per pair, although 3)4 
lbs. are better. 

The market for "roasters" commences about May 
and runs the balance of the year. Roasters weigh from 
5 lbs. to 8 lbs. per pair. The best weight is 6 lbs. or 
7 lbs. per pair. Roasters reach 40 cents per pound in 
the heart of the season. Capons come in to market 
about January, and large ones sell for about 25 cents 
per pound. In dressing capons do not remove feath- 
ers from the neck, end joint of wing and a small 
spot on each thigh or fluff. There are a number of 
raisers who claim that there is more money in roasters 
and capons than in broilers, for, after the broiler age 



78 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

losses by death are rare. The writer believes that the 
vast amount of food the chick consumes after passing 
the broiler age offsets the death rate, and then the ex- 
tra room (buildings) and care should be added. Broil- 
ers give us quicker returns, and the man who is suc- 
cessful in raising roasters must be successful in raising 
broilers. All we have to say is that those who prefer 
to raise roasters or capons, why that is just what they 
should do. 

There is nothing like a reputation, and the poultry- 
man who wishes to get a reputation must send only 
choice chicks and eggs to market. Eggs 
uSitioif^^' s^^^^l^ ^® clean and assorted as to size and 
color. Chicks should be uniform in weight 
and plumpness. Do not mix large and small, fat and 
poor chicks together. If it is necessary to kill poor or 
large chicks, why pack them in a box by themselves 
and send the choice ones by themselves. In mixed 
lots the price is cut heavily, and often the good chicks 
bring no more than the poor ones. It is a good plan 
to have a trade-mark and make it known by sending 
only choice goods under it. Leave it off of poor 
packages. 

One of the best markets for choice chicks and eggs is 
Boston, with New York a good second. Prices are 
much higher in the East than in the West, but to bal- 
ance things grain is much higher in the East than in 
the West. Usually the best market is the one nearest 
home. If we live near any fair sized town then we can 
easily work up a good trade without much trouble. 
Every one wants strictly fresh eggs and poultry. Have 
a card printed and state thereon your business, viz. : 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 79 



RIVEESIDE POULTRY FARM. 

John Jones, Prop. 

Farm-raised chickens and fowls ; fed on 

good, sweet grain only. Freshest of eggs 

from my own fowls, gathered and delivered 

daily. Your trade is respectfully solicited. 

John Jones, Squeedunk, Pa. 



Call at each house and see that the card gets into the 
hands of the ''good woman," and if not successful call 
again. A few sales of good, fresh stock will usually 
secure the custom and prices can be under your own 
control, which ought to be higher than the regular 
market price. Then, too, we can control the weight of 
chicks. They are apt to shrink amazingly when the 
commission merchant gets them. Orders should be 
taken a day or two in advance. The chicks can be 
dressed, sorted and tied (as ordered) and then weighed. 
Mark each order and put the weight down in a book 
and drop them in a barrel of clean water, as stated 
previously, where they can remain over night and be 
ready to deliver next morning. Chicks thus treated will 
not shrink in weight, if anything they will gain a trifle, 
but, by weighing shortly after being killed and before 
lying long in the water, no one will be cheated. We 
have no difficulty in getting from 6 to 10 cents per 
dozen for eggs above New York prices, and the same 
holds good with chickens to private well-to-do families 
the best of the season. We aim to double the whole- 
sale price of live chicks. Of course we have a good 
market, living close to the finest summer resorts on the 
New Jersey coast — Asbury Park, Ocean Grove and sur- 
rounding resorts. 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE TURKEY THE DUCK THE GOOSE. 

Turkey raising is also very profitable, especially 
where one is on a large farm. The turkey is largely 
self-supporting, and although somewhat dif- 
Mai'ke^f ficult to bring to the two months age, yet 
very hardy thereafter. The most profitable 
breed, and by far the most popular, is the Bronze. It 
is the largest variety, grows very rapidly and is fine 
flavored. If hatched reasonably early, it will outweigh 
any other variety of the same age by several pounds. 
It costs no more to raise, and therefore is more profit- 
able. Following them in popularity is the White 
Holland and Mammoth Whites. These are more on 
the medium weight order, although the last named va- 
riety is somewhat larger than the former. They are ex- 
cellent varieties. The Narragansett is nearly the size 
of the Bronze, but is little bred outside of Vermont. 
Other varieties are the Slate, Buff and Black. Each 
"variety has its admirers, and one should choose the 
breed he can take the most pride in. On every hand 
we see the common or scrub turkey. If, however, 
these common turkeys are crossed each year with some 
of the larger varieties, then they will prove profitable. 
We believe in thorough-breds, even to cats and dogs — 
especially dogs. 

Turkeys are not easy to raise at the best, but when 
precautions are not taken then look out. In-breeding 

(80) 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 81 

is worse with turkeys than with hens. Always procure 
new blood, in the shape of gobblers, each year. Lice, 
did we hear you say? Well, they will kill a young 
turkey quicker than anything else. 

Improper feeding is another cause for delicate turkeys. 
Corn is usually fed ratlier lavishly to the hens during 
winter and early spring, and the old turkeys are apt to 
be very fat when they commence to lay, which is gen- 
erally the last of March in New Jersey. Fat hens and 
fertile, strong germed eggs do not go together worth a 
a cent. Toward spring the turkeys should be fed on a 
regular egg ration, and have them in only fair flesh. If 
it is not desired to hunt for eggs, then the turkeys 
should be confined in a large, shady yard until twelve 
o'clock each day. Young turkeys do much better 
if hatched by a turkey hen, although the first eggs 
should be set under common hens; and, as it gets later, 
then the turkey hen can be set. If the turkey hatches 
late, say about June 1, or later, then she will take all 
the care of the young and do better than if confined 
and fed by hand. Let them run if grass and bugs are 
plentiful, and don't feed except at night, but we have 
raised many a turkey that never received a bit of food 
except what nature provided. Thus treated, they will 
usually outgrow the home ones. Sixteen to twenty eggs 
can be placed under a turkey hen, while nine or ten is 
enough for a common hen. 

If it is desirable to set the turkey hens in their own 
nests, then they can be allowed to *^ steal" them, only 
these nests should be shaped up, and after the turkey 
commences to set erect a temporary cover over her to 
keep off the rain. The first consideration then is lice. 
Be sure to dust the hen thoroughlv with a good insect 




82 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

powder when commenciDg to set. Hold her up by the 
legs and work the powder down into the feathers with 
the hand. After ten days dust her again so as to kill 
all the new hatches. A day before she is due to hatch 
repeat the operation. Be sure there are no lice, espec- 
ially on the head and between the flight feathers on 
the wings. Here is where lice delight to stay, w^hether 
it is turkeys or hens. 

Always look out for lice, and when found, dust every 
turkey, or if preferred, place a drop or two of lard or 
castor oil on the head, under the wings and around 
the vent. Repeat once a week. Do not use too much, 
or it will hurt the turkey. If w^e w^ish to take care of 
the little fellows, then we should proceed as follows: 
Use a roomy coop and have a board bottom. Have it 
a little smaller than coop, so the coop will just clear it 
when set down. Each morning clean this off and resand 
with coarse sand if possible. The ground is usually 
damp during the early spring months, and dampness is 
fatal to young turkeys, especially when cooped. Build a 
little pen either of 12-inch boards, set up edgewise, or use 
12-inch wire netting on frames, inch mesh. The tur- 
keys should be confined to the coop and pen for about 
five days, when the boards can be removed and only 
used on damp days. After the seventh day open the 
coop on all clear days and let the hen and brood run, 
but be sure to get them back at night, and do not let 
them out until the dew is off the grass. Feed about 
the same as for chickens. Commence when the tur- 
keys are about twenty-four hours old. Rolled oat meal 
for the first two days, and then stale bread can be 
given. A little chopped onion daily is also beneficial. 
Milk is a good drink and milk curd is excellent. In 
fact they should be fed the same as chickens. Feed 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 83 

every two hours for the first month. Always feed on 
a clean board and what they will eat up clean in about 
ten minutes. Do not keep feed before them all the 
time. It is worse than folly. What would we think 
of the farmer who would keep corn and hay before 
his horses all the time? It would soon ruin them, and 
it will do the same for poultry. Each morning care- 
fully look the turkeys over, and if any look droopy, 
examine for lice, and at the same time give each ail- 
ing one a grain of whole black pepper. Keep a dish of 
grit and one of charcoal before them all the time, and 
add ground bone to the soft scalded feed after they are 
one week old. The feed may be scalded the same as 
for chickens, only give the milk curd once or twice a 
day, at the morning and afternoon feeding time. 

As we stated above, we recommend the go-as-you- 
please plan when a turkey hen is used and the weather 
is mild, or after June 1. We have had turkeys raised 
thus without a particle of feed or care from us, and the 
young toms have weighted twenty pounds and over by 
Thanksgiving. One first of October we had two hens 
come off with ten and eleven turkeys respectively. 
We left home the next day, and when we next saw the 
turkeys they were over three weeks old and only one 
missing. At seven weeks old they were growing like 
weeds. 

Notwithstanding freezing weather at nights, the 
turkeys stuck to their fence rail roost. They came 
up every morning and evening for their feed of whole 
wheat. We did not put them under cover until snow 
fell. Late turkeys should never be used as breed- 
ers, but these little fellows will make royal eating after 
the holidays. In ordinary winter weather we allow the 
turkeys to roost in the trees, but during stormy or very 



84 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

cold weather we put them under cover. An old shed — 
made tight on top and sides with building paper — an- 
swers the purpose. It should be roomy, and arranged 
so it can be opened on the south side. Have wire net- 
ting across the opening so that during the day the front 
can be opened and yet keep the turkeys in if there is 
snow on the ground, or if it is stormy. Do not try to 
keep them housed closely. Keep them hardy but avoid 
all draughts. A costly mistake is often made by people 
selling all the large early-hatched birds because they 
will bring more, forgetting, apparently, that next year's 
hatches depend on this year's stock. The best is none 
too good, and avoid in-breeding as you would the roup. 
Two-year old hens mated with yearling toms will give 
stronger chicks than will yearling hens, even if mated 
with two-year old toms. In fact turkeys three and four 
years old will give good results as breeders, but they 
will not lay as many eggs as yearling hens. One rea- 
son for this is that old turkeys get fat more readily than 
young ones, and fatness will decrease the number of 
eggs every time. Keep them in good, healthy condi- 
tion, and in moderate flesh. Turkeys will not stand con- 
finement. They are an American bird, and as such 
love liberty. They dearly love the turnip patch and 
cabbage patch, otherwise they will do little harm, and 
they will destroy an amazing lot of injurious insects 
during a season. It is the usual custom to have one 
tom with seven hens, but if the tom is vigorous he will 
mate with twelve hens. In fact that is the usual number 
of turkey hens to a tom on our farm. We find the eggs 
very fertile with such mating. 

We do not claim that turkeys will always do the best 
if allowed to take care of themselves. Many things 
should be taken into consideration, If hawks or other 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 85 

destroyers are about them we should be very watchful. 
Such practice will not do early in the season, and even 
later it is best to teach the hen and brood to come up 
to the barn at night, thus gaining a good supper of 
whole wheat, and if not off too early, a breakfast of the 
same. It will hasten maturity. If we wish to hatch 
early (May), when cold storms threaten them, we will 
have to exercise great care, as given above. 

Let us go over the ground again for these early 
hatches. Have the coop roomy and dry with a board 
floor. Keep the floor well sanded, and build a small 
yard in front of coop by standing up boards so the little 
fellows can be confined for the first week. As the hen 
hatches remove a part of the turks after they dry off, 
and occasionally remove the shells, for they are apt to 
slip over au unhatched egg and thus kill the chick. If 
the hen is wild or very cross it is best to leave her 
severely alone. After all are hatched and about 
twenty-four or thirty-six hours old, remove all to the 
coop and feed the hen first, then encourage the little 
ones to pick up small pieces of the hard-boiled Qgg 
crumbled for them, but only feed the Qgg clear the first 
day; after that time feed it mixed thoroughly with 
twice the amount of bread crumbs, or feed as stated 
above. Discard the egg after the third day and give 
oatmeal and bread crumbs every two or three hours and 
only what they will eat up in about five minutes. 
Keep the hen well fed with wheat, corn, etc. The 
bread crusts can be soaked in milk and squeezed dry 
before feeding. Give milk to drink, and if a saucer is 
used place a heavy board partly over it to prevent suicide. 
Give milk curd frequently, for it is excellent for them. 
If the weather is damp mix, once a day, a little pepper 
in their food. When the turks reach the advanced age 



bb PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

of one month, then cracked corn and whole wheat 
should be given at night; and as they grow the corn 
and wheat — especially wheat — can be increased until it 
composes their whole ration. After they reach a week 
or two of age, then on pleasant days the turkey hen 
may be liberated, but at this time we should be careful 
to let her roam only in the direction we wish her to go, 
for if taught this lesson at the start she will usually 
follow the same path during the remainder of the sea- 
son. Before the turkeys become full-feathered we 
should keep our eye on the weather, and if a storm 
threatens, gather all in their coops, or prepare to bury 
the dead. Turkeys can not stand a wetting until they 
are full feathered, when they can be trusted to look out 
for themselves. Keep everlastingly at the lice, for they 
are more to be feared than all else combined. We can 
not raise a crop of lice and a crop of turkeys at the 
same time. Lice and dampness will cause a turkey 
famine sure. 

SUCCESSFUL TURKEY RAISERS. 

In order to make this chapter more complete we have 
solicited articles from several successful turkey raisers 
throughout the country, believing that the reader will 
appreciate such letters, for they tell just how these peo- 
ple manage their flocks successfully. We believe that 
this chapter, especially the letters, will prove invalua- 
ble to would-be turkey raisers. 

[From Illinois.] 

We will give our experience last year raising with 
chicken hens — not that I think it best to use chicken 
hens, but, of course, we often have to do so. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 87 

Our first 25 poults were hatched the 22d of Ma}^ by 
hens. We gave them to 2 hens in good coops witli a 
board in bottom. In front had a lath coop, into which 
the old hen could come out to exercise; around that 
was a pen a foot high, made of 4 12-inch boards about 
10 feet long. The poults could run around in this. 

Their first feed was millet seed, then for about two 
weeks fed them hard-boiled eggs mixed with dandelion 
leaves cut fine with a knife or scissors, the 
First Feed, whole seasoned with a little salt and pepper, 
bread and milk and milk curd. Fed at first 
three times a day, but soon saw this was not often 
enough, and fed them five times a day, the same as we 
do early chickens — only fed them a little at once, just 
what they ate in a few moments, and always left them 
looking for more. Kept coarse sand before them all 
the time, cleaned the floor of coop every day, usually 
scrubbing it with cold water. 

When they were one week old, removed the board 
pen and let them go where they liked. When two 
weeks old, turned the old hen out, also, but kept her 
shut up mornings till the grass was dry. The poults 
would not go far enough from the coop to get wet with- 
out the hen. The ground, of course, was bare for a 
short distance around coop. When about two weeks 
old, fed them but three times a day, a little later but 
twice a day. At about three weeks commenced the 
feeding of wheat screenings; this and curd was about 
all I fed, but of course they often ate with the chick- 
ens, but didn't allow them to when I could help it. 

When lice made an appearance, which was often 
enough, I assure you, we dusted them with insect pow- 
der, and even when quite large did the same 
Lice. or rubbed fresh lard along the wings. I did 

not use lard while they were small. 



88 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

All 25 were alive, going in the trees to roost, and 
all healthy, but one was killed and most all of the rest 
took cold. Some were so bad that I consented to have 
the hatchet used on five of them, although think 
some of them would have lived had we borne with 
them; so we raised 19, which wasn't bad, after all, but 
would like to have raised them all, not so much for 
what they'd have been worth as the satisfaction it 
would have been not to have lost one of that 25. 

We had trouble with our later ones taking cold, too. 

As to drinking water, some old turkey raisers told 
us not to give any water, so we didn't give them much 
. at first — but that's all nonsense. We let 
Water"^^ them have water twice or three times a day, 
but when they were through drinking emp- 
tied out what was left; didn't let them drink late in 
the evening. Don't know that there is anything in 
this, but we did it. 

All food was fresh and clean, all soft feed fed on a 
clean board. Now, this looks like lots of trouble, but 
it's just as easy to do a thing right as wrong, and takes 
no more time. Who wouldn't be proud of a nice flock 
of Mammoth Bronze turkeys, to say nothing of the 
dollars they'll bring? Yours, for lots of turkeys. 

Mrs. B. F. H. 

Milford, 111. 

[Turkeys in Mississippi.] 

I am well situated for raising turkeys, having splen- 
did range woods both front and back of house, with 
''Rocky Spring" branch running through. Set my 
hens in a quiet, secluded place. When they hatch I 
put them in a large coop out in front away from other 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 80 

fowls. The first food is bread, or corn meal made up 
with buttermilk and soda, soaked in sweet milk (not 
enough to make sloppy), yolk of hard boiled egg and 
onion tops cut fine, all mixed together, put in the 
coop fresh three times a day, removing what is left 
from former feeding. Have grit where they 
Grit. can get it at all times — bits of broken china- 

ware broken up fine. The second day the 
egg is left off. Feed bread, milk and onion tops, with 
now and then curd mixed in. If they are strongenough 
to walk, let them out for a while in the warm sunshine. 
It seems to strengthen them. In cool, rainy weather 
confine the hen in the coop, letting the young pass in 
and out. Give a sprinkle of black pepper in morning 
feed. In the evening when they come up, if there is a 
sick or droopy one, give it a bit of cold boiled fat meat. 
When they have free range they often eat poisonous 
bugs and spiders. I gave fat meat in food once a 
week. (If I am not mistaken I got that suggestion 
from the Epitomist long years ago. ) If the weather is 
good the third day I feed and turn them out. The hen 
knows how far they can go. The older they get the 
further they range. At noon I take my feed 
Noon feed, pan, go hunt them up and feed out in the 
woods. They will soon learn to watch for 
one, so it is not hard to find them. They come running 
and flying to meet me, so ravenous, eating the last bit 
of onion first, then the bread. I could write a wiiole 
chapter on that noon feeding in the woods; I enjoy it 
as much as the turkeys. Hope some poor, tired-out 
housekeeper will take a hint. Think fresh buttermilk 
better than sweet for every day feed. Give onion tops 
as long as they last; the turkeys never tire of them. 
Let them have free range and do pretty much as they 



90 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

want to; only make them come home to roost. When 
the weather grows hot and they show a disposition not 
to go in their coop, I set a plank over a large low- 
limbed walnut tree for them to roost on. They are no 
more trouble; are off their roost and gone by the time 
it is daybreak; come up about eight or nine o'clock for 
Thoroiio'h- their breakfast. Have always raised the com- 
breds pay mon turkey up to last year, when I bought a 
best. setting of Mammoth Bronze. Kept one of my 

old-stock turkey hens to raise them. Out of nine eggs 
raised eiglit turkeys. They are beauties. I expect to 
raise a large flock this year, and make it profitable as 
well as a pleasure. I don't think my success is due to 
my management as much as to the natural advantages 
of range. They go all over the neighborhood, if there 
is a large flock, and in October and November they are 
like Bo Peep's sheep until I begin to thin them out 
about Thanksgiving. Mrs. L. 0. 

Kelly, Miss. 

[From Pennsylvania.] 

Use eggs from large, vigorous stock, gathered daily 
and kept in a temperature of 50° and turned twice a 
week. Set the hen in a coop with lath or wire run, 
using 9 eggs for a common hen and 15 to 20 for turkey 
hen. Have the nest roomy, using a box 8 or 12 inches 
deep. Place 2 inches of soft dirt in the bottom, and 
after shaping, put fine hay over it. Dust the hen with 
insect powder when setting her, and again before hatch- 
ing. Food : Hard-boiled egg one part and bread crumbs 
four parts, with finely broken egg-shell, also oat meal 
and onion tops. Bread, curd cheese, wheat and oat 
meal are main foods, with bone meal and grit. Place 
the coop on short grass, moving every few days. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



91 



Feed 
Board. 



Feed on clean board. For larger or half- 
grown turkeys feed on a board 9 inches wide, 
hinged to the side of a building or on stakes 
up out of the reach of small chickens Always feed on 
a flat surface and not in a V-shaped trough. Feed 
once adayon ground corn — oats, shorts or bran — adding 
one pint of ground meat and bone to two gallons of the 
feed, stirring to a stiff mixture with hot water. Keep 
coop, hen and poults well dusted, and in addition rub 
a trace of melted lard on the head and throat. Wash 
the fountains and give fresh water daily. Once a week 
disinfect them with carbolic acid. If other turkeys are 
in the neighborhood, mark the turkeys with a punch 
through the web of foot between the toes. 

If the weather is warm when the turkeys are hatched, 

keep them confined to run only a few days. After two 

weeks give both the hen and turkeys liberty, 

Wea!ther^ feeding and shutting in coop at night. If it 

is desired to have the young roost in a shed 

or building, teach them to go there before the hen weans 

them. If a common hen is to be used to hatch the 

turkey eggs, then a small coop can be used 22 inches 

deep, 31 inches wide, 16 inches high at back and 24 

inches high in front, with an open lath pen 4 feet long 

for the young poults. N. B. C. 

Oliphant Furnace, Pa. 

[Mr. C. finds this coop for young turkeys convenient 
and safe. There is an 8xl0-inch window in the back for 
light, and a door (lath) in front for convenience of 
cleaning. There is also a board bottom (movable) in 
coop. The run is 
made of lath so close 
together at the bot- 
tom that the young 



turkeys can not get t •"■'■•■ -iJ^" 




^OM::^ 



92 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

through. These lath at the bottom can be made to 
slide, so one or two may be removed if it is desirable 
to let the turkeys out. The door in end is to let the 
mother hen out or in. The top of run is also made of 
lath. The turkeys can be fed in the run and not be 
disturbed by other chickens.— Ed.] 

[Pepper for Turkeys.] 

When I take young turks from the nest I give each 
a grain of black pepper. 1 feed some milk curd, with 
plenty of ground black pepper and a few scraps of stale 
light bread, about five or six times a day, with plenty 
of pure water. 

I teach them to eat corn as soon as they are large 
enough, but never feed corn meal. I watch for lice, 
which I find on wings where large feathers start. 
That is why the wings droop. I grease with lard on 
wings where lice are, but never on head or body. I 
don't allow my young turks to get wet. Last year I 
didn't lose a turk. I find no more trouble raising 
them than chickens. A Farmer's Wife. 

Liberal, Mo. 

[We have great faith in black pepper for very young 
turkeys, especially during damp weather. Whenever 
a poult droops, give a grain of whole black pepper and 
then look for lice. In our grandmother's day the^" 
used to use black pepper for young turkeys. — Ed.] 



THE DUCK. 

The domestic duck is believed to be descended from 
the wild Mallard. The American Standard gives the 
names of eight breeds and ten varieties. The most 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 93 

popular breeds are the Pekin, Aylesbury, Rouen and 
Muscovy. 

Really there is only one popular variety, and that 
the Pekin. This is the breed used on all the great 
duck ranches of the country. It is a very quick 
grower and has pure white or creamy white plumage. 
Adult drakes should weigh eight pounds and ducks 
seven pounds. 

The Aylesbur}^ is an English importation and resem- 
bles the Pekin closely, excepting in color of feet and 
bill, which should be a pale flesh color instead of a 
deep rich yellow as in the Pekin. It is also a pound 
heavier. 

The Rouen is of the same standard weight as the 
Aylesbury, but has a rather dark, varied plumage. The 
darks, especially, are very beautiful. 

The Muscovys are heavier than any of the above. 
The standard weight for drakes is ten pounds and for 
ducks eight pounds. We have two varieties, the 
colored and white. When crossed with other breeds 
the offspring is a mule or barren. 

Duck raising has become a leading industry in cer- 
tain parts of the country. 

Long Island, N. Y., raises and ships, probably, 
more ducklings annually than all other districts com- 
bined. Incubator rooms with a capacity of from 4,000 
to 10,000 eggs at one time are common on Long Island. 
Tons of ducklings find their way into New York mar- 
kets each spring. Five hundred to twelve hundred 
breeders are kept especially for eggs, and thousands of 
dollars is invested in the business. We have, really, 
more large duck farms than poultry farms, although 
the poultry farms are much more numerous, of course. 
Ducks delight in free access to water, although thou- 



94 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

sands of Pekins are raised with only enough water to 
drink and none to swim in. While this is a fact, jet 
better results are usually obtained where the ducks 
have free access to water, especially during the breed- 
ing season. A duck will eat almost anything from a 
shoe string to lath nails, but if good results are ex- 
pected good sound food, especially bulky food, should 
be given. 

The Pekin is a very timid bird, therefore great care 
should be exercised in handling. 

The duck house should be in two parts, one for feed- 
ing and one for roosting. No roosting poles are used, 

of course, therefore the floor should be well 
Hoii^^^^^ littered with straw or anything dry. The 

water should be given in vessels so that the 
bird can only dip its bill therein, or a swimming pond 
will soon be made around it. If a stream of water is 
at hand, then the yards can run down to it and a por- 
tion enclosed. A fence two feet high will confine them. 
If given their liberty they w^ill not require any food 
from the ow^ner for six months of the year. Feed very 

little hard food to ducks. They do not have 
Food. a crop like a chicken, and hard food is not 

readily assimilated. Ducks can be allowed 
to range at all seasons of the year except when snow is 
on the ground. They will commence to lay from Jan- 
uary 1st to April 1st, according to the food and care. 
If early eggs are desired then they will have to be kept 
reasonably warm and fed for eggs. Probably the aver- 
age number of eggs laid per year by the Pekin is 100, 
although 150 is occasionally reported. Ducks lay early 
in the morning, seldom laying after eight o'clock, 
while the bulk of eggs are laid between five and seven 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 95 

o'clock. Six eggs per week can usually be expected, 
although frequently they will lay 100 eggs in 110 days. 

During the fall and winter the food may consist of 
corn meal, wheat bran and boiled vegetables — half the 
quantity should be vegetables. Scald this before feed- 
ing by mixing in the corn and bran while the potatoes 
are hot. Do not have it sloppy. As the birds near 
the laying period, meat in some form should be added, 
say from ten to twenty per cent. Grit is also very nec- 
essary, and green food should not be omitted during 
the laying season. Birds that have their liberty may 
be allowed to gather their own green food, but do not 
omit the meat during the laying season, but if the pick- 
ing is fairly good they should not be fed so liberally as 
when confined. Never feed more than is eaten up 
quickly. 

The incubator is operated about the same with duck 
eggs as with hen eggs. One hundred and three 
The degrees is the proper temperature, but let 

Artificial the tendency be rather under that degree than 
Method. over it. They require a little more air than 
hen eggs in order to dry them down sufficiently, for the 
shell is thick and tough. The air space should be larger 
at the seventeenth day than in a hen's egg, but when 
they commence to pip, then they should receive a little 
more moisture. Test the eggs on the fourth and fif- 
teenth days, and be sure to have the thermometer be- 
tween two fertile eggs, as stated elsewhere. It is more 
important to remove the addled eggs at the last test 
than if hen eggs are used, for they are apt to explode 
and bring dire calamity to the machine and attendant. 

They require a week longer to incubate than hen 
eggs, and the young duck will break the shell thirty- 
aix to forty-eight hours before they get ready to come 



96 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

out. A chick that can not get out of its shell alone 
will rarely amount to anything, but the duck seems to 
thrive as well when helped out as when he is able to 
get out himself. To help the duckling out, take off 
the top part of shell and he can be dumped out of the 
rest, but should he bleed leave him alone until he has 
absorbed all the blood. Never try to help him out un- 
less you are sure he can not get out himself. 

Ducks require the same degree of heat as do chicks. 
Start the brooders as given for chicks, and reduce it to 

90° at the end of the first week, 87° at the 
peratuiT ^^^^ ^^ ^^^® second week, and 80° to 85° at the 

end of the third week. After the end of the 
sixthweektheyareusually putintoa *' cold house." This 
can be built the same as a long brooder house without 
heat. They do not require heat after they are feathered 
out on the breast, unless it is cold weather, when a 
little heat is beneficial. 

Feed about the same as for chicks, only let there be 
more bulk, such as potatoes, cut clover, and, as they 

get older, feed cut green corn at noon. 
The Feed. The first feed — first three days — may be 

one part hard boiled eggs (infertile eggs) 
and three parts bread crumbs, and after that equal 
parts wheat bran, corn meal and boiled potatoes, with 
a little ground meat or scraps added. This food should 
be softer (at first) than for cliicks, and the water 
should be handy, so that the duckling can take a little 
with each mouthful. It is very interesting to see ducks 
eat. They do not swallow like anything else we have 
ever seen. They seem to get it down by giving a num- 
ber of spasmodic jerks. If water is not handy, they 
w^ill often choke, and then they are apt to get the nos- 
trils clogged unless they have plenty of water to wash 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 97 

the bill in, but under no circumstance should they be 
allowed water to swim in until they are feathered, at 
least on the breast. 

A good drinking fountain for young ducks is made 
by taking a gallon paint can well cleaned out. Punch 
a few holes with a nail half an inch up from the top or 
open end. Fill it w4th water and place over the open- 
ing an earthen flower saucer and quickly invert. The 
saucer should be about an inch larger in diameter than 
the can, thus the ducks will have half an inch of water 
only to ''muss" in, and you will find this quite 
enough. Never give milk to ducklings, for they have 
a knack of sticking themselves all up with it. Eather 
mix it in with the feed in place of water. The feed 
should be scalded of course. Never feed corn meal ex- 
clusively to ducklings, for it is apt to cripple them in 
their legs and feet. Ducklings are much easier to raise 
than chicks and the eggs are more fertile, thus hatch- 
ing a larger per cent. Early in the season the eggs, 
however, are not very fertile, especially the first few 
eggs laid. As the season progresses the eggs seem to 
become more fertile, and good results are assured. Of 
course we have had (in the above) the Pekin duck in 
mind, for this breed seems to be peculiarly adapted to 
the forcing process used on all broiler or duck farms. 

The ducklings are marketed when about nine weeks 
old, when they do, and should, dress from 8 to 10 
pounds per pair. The time to dress duck- 
Marketing-, -^j^gg .g ^^^^ ^Yiey are partlv feathered out. 

Do not let the second crop of feathers start, for it will 
not only cause delay in dressing, but also reduce them 
in flesh. All large ranches have their dressers. The 
price paid is 5 cents per duck, and forty ducks are 
counted a day's work. They are dry picked. 
7 



98 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

The pens should be kept heavily littered with straw 
or, better, salt hay, for it is fine and soft. Ducks are 
very dirty things, or, rather, they have the 
Houses knack of making things in general dirty — 
themselves included — therefore their pens, as 
well as the brooders, should be frequently cleaned out. 
A brooder house for ducks is built the same as for 
chicks — pens included — only the fences need not be 
over a foot high for young ones and two feet high for 
old ones. Ducks are enormous eaters. They are al- 
ways on the lookout for something to eat. Fill them 
up, and in half an hour they will appear as hungry as 
ever. If it wasn't for their astonishingly rapid growth 
they would soon *'eat their heads off," but as it is they 
will return a good profit on feed consumed. 

Mr. P. H. Jacobs, editor of the Poultry Keeper, once 
. made an experiment to show the relative dif- 
iiientf^^^^" ference in growth between chicks and duck- 
lings. Here is the result: 

DUCKLINGS. CHICKS. 

Lbs. Ozs. Lbs. Ozs. 

One week old 4 ... 2 

Two weeks old 9 ... 4 

Three weeks old 1 ... ... 6>^ 

Four weeks old 1 9 ... 10 

Five weeks old 2 2 ... 14 

Sixweeksold 2 11 1 23^ 

Seven weeks old 3 5 1 1}4 

Eight weeks old 4 ... 1 12 

Nine weeks old 4 8 2 ... 

As they approach maturity (after the eighth week) 
the ratio of gain begins to become proportionately less, 
while some were heavier than others. The ducks were 
kept in a small coop, and fed to demonstrate the high- 
est point they could be made to attain; the purest Pekins 
being used for the experiment. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 99 

If the old stock is kept in confinement then five ducks 
to one drake is usually allowed, and twenty-five to 

thirty ducks can be kept in one pen. If given 
Breeding', their liberty six or seven ducks to one drake 

will answ^er. Ducks are not as susceptible 
to in-breeding as hens, providing only the strongest 
and best specimens are used. If the flock is small then 
new drakes should be procured occasionall}^ Unlike 
hens, ducks are good breeders and layers until six or 
eight years old. Probably two and three-year-old ducks 
make the best breeders. Ducks frequently lay in the 
fall, thus surpassing the hen in productiveness. Ducks 
stand confinement very well. They do not stand much, 
though, for inactivity does not agree with Mr. Duck. 
He is always on the go; even at night he wnll be up 
and doing. Ducks do not scratch nor wander far from 
home. Nowadays (in Pekins) the keel duck is all the 
fashion. We often see show specimens with as deep a 
keel (breast bone) as the goose. While the standard 
weight is eight pounds for a drake yet they often reach 
ten to eleven pounds. The deep keel adds largely to 
the weight. The feathers of the Pekin command nearly 
as high price as do geese feathers, thus adding some- 
what to the income. In fact these feathers are often 
sold for geese feathers. While running water is best 
for old ducks, especially during the breeding season 
(some raisers do not use any water except for drinking 
purposes), ducklings should never be allowed this 
privilege. Ducks make good incubators but poor moth- 
ers. Always set duck eggs under hens, and by follow- 
ing the above directions success can be had by those 
who wash to raise only a few each year. When run- 
ning at liberty they are apt to pick up injurious insects 



100 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

and die from the effect. Rose bugs are usually fatal to 
young ducks. 

The great duck-raising district of the United States, 
as we stated before, is Long Island, N. Y. The vil- 
lages most noted in this line are Eastport, 
D^sMcts"^^ Speonk, East Moriches, West Hampton and 
a few others in their vicinity. The output 
of ducklings for the season of '95 was nearly one mil- 
lion, and nearly half a million duck eggs were sold for 
eating or hatching, besides the immense quantity used 
for hatching purposes at home. Probably the banner 
town is Eastport. It is but a small town, and about 
eight out of every ten of its inhabitants raise ducks for 
a living. Over 150,000 ducklings were shipped from 
there during the past season. The statement is made 
that the towns of Speonk, Eastport, Westhampton and 
Central Moriches, all of which are near each other, 
shipped 900,000 pounds of ducklings to market during 
the past season. 



THE GOOSE. 

The standard gives us six breeds, viz.: Toulouse, 
gray; Embden, white; African, gray; Chinese, brown 
and white; Wild, gray, and Egyptian, colored. The 
standard weight for the two most popular breeds is 
Toulouse, 20 pounds for gander or goose; Embden, 20 
pounds for gander and 18 pounds for goose. 

There are more geese raised in the West than in the 
East. Probably Rhode Island takes the lead in the East. 

The China is considered the best layer and the Emb- 
den best for feathers, as they are large and pure white. 
A cross of the Toulouse gander and Embden goose 
makes an excellent young goose for market. Geese 



PRACTICAL rOULTRY CULTURE. 101 

derive most of their food from the water and pasture 
fields. They pasture much the same as cows. They 
can be kept in confinement if supplied with grass, veg- 
etables and a little grain. They should be fed much 
the same as ducks. The goose usually lays between 20 
and 40 eggs, and make good mothers. 

During the winter they should be cared for about the 
same as ducks. Cooked vegetables and bran, together 
with clover hay, and a little corn during cold weather, 
will pull them through in good shape. They fatten 
readily, and care should be exercised as they near the 
laying period (March or April) so as not to have them 
over fat. As spring approaches and pasture begins to 
pick up, very little need be fed, but at night give them 
a feed of boiled vegetables, bran and a little meat. If 
confined, then feed the mash in the morning and 
wheat, oats, barley and corn at night, alternately. 
Give sharp sand and grit, and plenty of fresh water. 

The first eggs can be set under hens. Put a sod in 
the bottom of the nest and fill in with a little loose dirt, 
shape up a little and cover an inch with cut 
Hatcliing-. straw. Five to eight egg3 are enough for a 
hen. If it is desirable to make the goose lay 
a second litter she can be confined away from the nest 
when she shows signs of wanting to set. A few days 
will break her up usually. It takes about 30 days 
to hatch geese eggs. Geese usually lay every other 
day. Sometimes they lay at night and sometimes 
during the day. It is just as well to bring the goslings 
up by hand, especially if the weather is moderately 
warm. They can be kept in a soap box in the kitchen 
at night and allowed to run in a pen during the day. 
The pen should be moved to fresh grass every day so 
they can pasture. If possible sow some wheat, oats or 



102 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

rye, and pasture them on that; they will do better so 
treated. For the first few days feed them on chopped 
boiled eggs mixed with stale bread, and finely chopped 
grass or cabbage. Nettles, if procurable, make the 
best of green food. They seem to be peculiarly adapted 
to young goslings. They should be chopped up fine. 
After the fourth day feed about the same as ducks. A 
mash of vegetables, bran, cornmeal and grass, or any- 
thing green, makes a good feed. They should be fed 
four or five times a day. 

Always have separate houses for ducks and geese. 
Keep the floor well littered with straw or leaves and do 
not let it become filthy. They must have clean quar- 
ters to sleep in, especially during cold weather. During 
mild or warm weather they may be allowed to sleep 
anywhere they choose out of doors, except during the 
laying period and then they should be guarded so 
as to get the eggs. 

G-eese feathers are quite valuable. Indeed, many 
persons raise geese especially for this purpose. Geese 
should be picked about once in two months 
Feathers, during the late spring, summer and early 
fall. It is not a cruel practice, for otherwise 
they will pick themselves and the feathers are thus 
lost. They should be picked when ripe, i. e., when no 
blood is in the end of the quill. Never pick geese 
feathers when there is danger of drawing blood. 

In picking it is necessary to protect the operator's 
person by drawing a stocking over the goose's head 
and down the neck. Also secure the wings by hold- 
ing or tying them. 

Many a small boy can testify to the biting or strik- 
ing — with the wings — power of the goose. We have 
carried black and blue marks more than once from 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 103 

coming into contact with their wings. Children should 
never be allowed to go near geese during breeding time. 
Picking geese too frequently or at improper times is 
extremely cruel, and any person who is cruel enough 
to do such a thing ought to have his hair pulled out 
so as to realize how it feels. 

The picking should be done in a close room, for 
every little puff of wind will send the feathers flying. 
Remove only the smaller feathers. The larger ones 
should be left on, excepting five or six under each 
wing; this will keep the wing from drooping. The 
down should be removed only during very warm 
weather. The number of times during a season that a 
goose can be picked will depend on the climate, but for 
the North three times will be about all. Only pick 
when the feather is clear and not filled with bloody 
matter. About one pound of feathers will be obtained 
from the three pickings per goose, and these will sell 
at from 50 to 70 cents. When the goslings are about 
nine weeks old they can be picked. At the first pick- 
ing all the feathers on the back and shoulders, and the 
larger one on the hips should be left. In about six or 
seven weeks they should be picked again and more 
freely. If we raise them for market, probably it would 
be best to pick only once, and that when they are from 
three to four months old. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

DISEASES OF POULTRY. 

Poultry is subject to quite a number of diseases, 
mainly produced by lice, which sap the vitality, and 
improper feeding and housing. In the fall and winter 
season, colds, due to exposure, or more commonly 
draughts, are frequent, and these soon turn to roup or 
other diseases. We will take up the various diseases 
as they are suggested to us. In suggesting remedies 
we have drawn somewhat from various works on the 
subject, paying particular attention to simplicity of 
treatment. 

Dr. Sanborn, in ''Farm Poultry," describes it as fol- 
lows : ''The word roup is probably derived from croup, 
an inflammatory disease of the larynx, and 
Roup. trachea in the human biped. Roup is a pur- 

ulent catarrhal affection of the air passages." 

It is not a difficult thing for cold to degenerate into 
roup, and it is one of the worst enemies that fowls are 
heir to. 

Many seemingly trifling things or conditions may 
produce roup, viz.: Draughts, impure, close air, damp, 
unclean houses, small cracks in walls near roost poles, 
improper food, filthy water, stagnant water, any form 
of improper handling which tends to lower the vitality, 
thus causing the body to be susceptible to disease ; 
overfeeding or underfeeding, or a leaky, damp house. 
Roup is a very contagious disease, and a bird that once 

(104) 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 105 

has it in a bad form will never wholly recover, and al- 
though apparently well, yet the offspring will be very 
susceptible to it. We have seen flocks of two to three 
hundred fowls completely prostrated. One flock seemed 
to recover as spring opened, only to take it again the 
following fall. The only sure remedy is the ax, and 
this should be applied just as soon as we are sure of the 
disease. As soon as a bird shows any symptoms of dis- 
ease it should be separated from the flock and given a 
clean, dry house by itself. 

Symptoms. — Roup commences with a catarrhal in- 
flammation of the mucous membranes of the eyes 
and nostrils. The discharge is at first thin; as the 
disease progresses respiration becomes difficult, due 
to a clogging of the nostrils and throat. A closed 
eye may not be roup but simply due to the fowl 
roosting near a crack or nail hole in side of house. 
The best plan is to cover the outside and inside of roost 
with tarred paper and close up all ventilators in freez- 
ing weather. 

The most dangerous form commences by a swelling 
of the head and a strong-smelling breath. If not 
treated the fowl will die in from six to twelve days. A 
mild case of cold — more properly catarrh — will run 
along for several weeks, but with mild treatment and 
proper food can be cured in a few days. 

Treatment. — First remove all causes of colds, such 
as cracks, overhead ventilators, dampness, etc. If 
the fowls sneeze and shake their heads it is best 
to commence at once and add spongia to the drinking 
water (we are inclined to the homeopathic remedies 
for all diseases of poultry), say 25 to 40 drops of the 
tincture to a pailful. Continue this treatment until 



106 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

cured. Should one or more birds seem to be worse than 
the majority remove them to separate quarters. 

Dr. Woods gives an excellent roup mixture, as fol- 
lows: Tincture of aconite, ten drops; tincture of spongia, 
ten drops; alcohol enough to make one ounce. Put a 
teaspoonful of this in a quart of drinking water daily. 

Should the head swell and cheesy matter form in the 
roof of the mouth, with strong breath, then the bird 
will have to be bandied. The kerosene remedy is a 
good one. Take a quart can and fill it with the oil. 
Take the bird by the feet and neck and plunge the head 
in the oil; hold it there a moment and withdraw; im- 
mediately wipe the head dry with a soft cloth to pre- 
vent the feathers coming out. For sore eyes we use a 
simple eye wash twice a day and bathe the head with 
glycerine or carbolated vaseline. At the same time ad- 
minister a small liver pill until the bowels are moving 
freely. Feed the birds on bread and milk. Mr. A. F. 
Hunter, editor of Farm Poultry , recommends the follow- 
ing mixture for colds and roup: ^'A tablespoonful of 
clear lard, half a tablespoonful each of ginger, cayenne 
pepper and mustard; mix well together and then add 
flour until the whole has the consistency of dough; roll 
into slugs about the size of the top joint of the little 
finger, and put one down the patient's throat. The 
dose can be repeated in twelve or twenty-four hours, 
according as the case seems to need it. For swelled 
head we bathe with a glycerine-turpentine lotion made 
of one part spirits of turpentine to six parts glycerine; 
and for sneezing colds and swelled heads combined, use 
both remedies. If the patient does not show signs of 
improvement within three days after beginning treat- 
ment, take off its head and bury or burn it." Mr. P. 
H. Jacobs says: ''Dissolve a teaspoonful of chloride 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 107 

of lime in a pint of water and give the bird a teaspoon- 
ful of the solution. Burn tar and turpentine in the 
house after the fowls have gone to roost." A cold can 
be easily cured, but if not taken in hand soon then the 
best remedy is the ax, as we stated before. 

If the fowls show signs of colds wash the drinking 
vessels thoroughly each morning with hot water to 
which a little carbolic acid has been added. Nearly all 
diseases are transmitted through the drinking water. 
Roup is not necessarily contagious of itself, but the 
germs are transmitted through the drinking vessel; 
thus it is wise to separate all sick birds. 

The much-dreaded disease, cholera, is happily very 
rare. It affects the mucous surfaces and is always ac- 
companied by diarrhea. Cholera soon runs 
Cholera. its course and the victim usually dies in from 
eight to forty-eight hours from the time of 
contracting it. It is seldom seen here in the true Asi- 
atic type, but nevertheless it is severe enough as it is. 
It is seen usually during warm and damp weather, es- 
pecially if the surrounding conditions are filthy. Chol- 
era never enters a flock that is properly housed and fed 
and everything clean and sweet, especially the drink- 
ing water, unless brought by carelessness, like intro- 
ducing an affected bird, or even brought home from a 
neighbor's' by a dropping adhering to the foot and thus 
getting into the feed or water. There is no breed that 
is proof against cholera. Age is not proof against its 
ravages, but young, growing stock will not contract it 
as readily as older. Freezing weather puts a stop to 
its ravages, at least for a [time. When first attacked 
the bird seems mopish, picks out warm corners to sit 
in ; the feathers are ruffled, the wings droop. The 
feathers round the vent are stuck together, due to a di- 



108 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

arrhea discharge. The feet seem to drag when walk- 
ing and the eyelids close. The bird has no appetite, 
but a feverish desire for water. The discharge at first 
is slightly thick and soon becomes watery and frothy, 
and later on is slightly bloody. The mucous mem- 
branes of the body become inflamed and a frothy dis- 
charge comes from the nostrils, eyes and mouth. The 
comb turns to a dark or purplish color. 

Treatment. — As the disease is so rapid and severe, 
we will have to be ever on the alert and immediately 
remove every bird that sliows signs of diarrhea to sep- 
arate quarters. Give the entire premises a thorough 
cleaning, especially the drinking vessels. Fill in all 
low places where water does or may stand. AVhitewash 
all buildings thoroughly inside and sprinkle air-slaked 
lime freely inside and outside of roost. Sprinkle a lit- 
tle over the birds at night, also. Dr. Sanborn recom- 
mends this mixture in the drinking water for the dis- 
eased birds : ''Water, one quart ; spirits of camphor, 
one-half teaspoonful ; sulpho-carbolate of zinc, one- 
fourth ounce. Give the apparently well birds for 
drink : Water, one quart ; sulpho-carbolate of zinc, 
one-eighth ounce. If there is violent diarrhea, give 
every two hours a tablet or pill of Dover's powder (one 
grain each). This will relieve some of the pain, and 
lessen the number of discharges. A diet of meat juice 
is best for a cholera case." 

A homeopathic remedy is arsenicum iodatum, or ar- 
senicum, 6, in the drinking water. In cleaning the 
roost about six inches of the earth should be removed 
and this space filled in with fresh, clean sand. It is 
not wise to keep yards so crowded that grass or weeds 
can not grow. If the yards are not in grass, then once 
a year they should be spaded up and rye or crimson 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 109 

clover should be sowed. This will purify the ground. 
Poultry should never be kept on low, damp soil. A 
high and rather sandy soil is preferred. 



Indigestion, or dyspepsia, is often taken for cholera. 
It is usually produced by overfeeding and poor hous- 
ing. Nature's method is a little at a time 
Indig-estion. and often, until by night the crop is, or 
should be, full. Man's method is, usually, 
to fill up the crop in the morning and keep it full; this 
is the main cause for indigestion. Improper food is 
another cause, especially lack of grit or green food. 
Chicks, as well as grown fowls, suffer from this, there- 
fore care in feeding and housing should be exercised. 
In this condition the bird wnll seem droopy, and con- 
stipation may result or a hardening of the crop. 

Treatment. — Proper housing and care, with an ab- 
sence of food for a day or two. Supply grit and broken 
charcoal, then feed often and sparingly, with plenty of 
outdoor exercise. Two teaspoonfuls of sulphate mag- 
nesia in a quart of drinking water is a good tonic for 
a week or two. A teaspoonful of fenugreek in soft 
food for every ten hens is also good. 



This is usually seen in the fall of the year in young, 
growing stock. Damp w^eather seems to suit it. The 
sores or ulcers usually appear on the head, 
Dox^ ^^' ^^^^ ^•'^^ underside of wings. If the inflam- 
mation extends to the eyes it may result in 
the loss of one or both. 

Treatment. — Carbolated vaseline is excellent to ap- 
ply twice a day to the sores. Feed a mash rich in meat 
and green stuff. House securely, especially on damp 
days. 



110 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

A too heavy ration of meat will bring on 
Dysentery, diarrhea. If diarrhea is neglected it will 
run into dysentery. The discharge is watery 
and streaked with blood. 

Treatment. — Keep the water dishes clean and give ten 
grains of sulphate of magnesia, followed in three hours 
by five grains Dover's powder. If not checked give two 
grains Dover's powder morning and night. 



Diseases of the liver are caused by over- 
Liver feeding, especially of fat-producing foods, 
such as corn, etc., or by feeding too much 
stimulating food or spices. 

Congestion. — This is the first step leading to inflam- 
mation. It is caused by the obstruction of the free 
circulation of the blood due to diseased crop, gizzard or 
bowels. 

Symptoms. — A watery diarrhea, from brownish to 
yellow in color; rough plumage. The comb turns from 
a purple to almost black in color. The bird cares little 
for food or exercise. 

Treatment. — A teaspoonful of castor oil once a day, 
and a diet of cut-clover hay, sprinkled with wheat mid- 
dlings. If this condition is not soon checked it will pass 
on to 

Inflammation, which is usually fatal, and little can 
be done for the patient. 

Symptoms. — Diarrhea of a yellowish color, poor ap- 
petite and increasing thirst. Breathing is slow and 
hard, while the bird gradually wastes away. 

Treatment. — put a teaspoonful of tincture nux- 
vomica in a pint of drinking water. Feed as given 
above. Castor oil, as given above, may prove benefi- 
cial. 



PllACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. Ill 

Enlargement. — The too liberal feeding of fattening 
foods, with little exercise, is the main factor in this dis- 
ease. Old fowls are more susceptible to it than young 
fowls, because they lay on fat more readily. 

Symptoms. — General sluggishness. The fowl pre- 
ferring to sit on the ground and later refusing to go on 
the roost at night. 

Treatment. — Feed as before stated. For drink, put 
one-half teaspoonful of powdered muriate of ammonia 
in a pint of water. Feed sparingly and reduce fat. 

Probably we would better consider these two diseases 
here, as they are more or less caused by improper food. 
Coiistipa- Constipation is not very common and is usu- 
tioii and ally caused by lack of green and bulky food. 
Diarrhea. Increase the amount of bran in the feed and 
supply green food, and give clover hay chaff (loose 
parts) on the floor of pen. Diarrhea in brooder chicks 
is usually caused by too low a temperature, thus giv- 
ing the chicks colds on the bow^els. Be sure the heat 
is right first. If the chicks spread out and seem to be 
contented at night, then all is right. If they crowd and 
cry, then look out for deaths in the morning. Remem- 
ber that the proper degree of heat is of more importance 
than the food. Diarrhea is also caused by feeding too 
much bran or coarse and half -cooked food in the mash. 
A sudden change in the weather may cause catarrh of 
the bowels. If the food is all right then it must come 
from colds due to lack of heat or draughts. Keep the 
chicks dry and warm. Add a handful of linseed meal 
to, say, six quarts of the feed and put a tablespoonful 
of tincture of iron to each quart of the drinking water. 
Do not feed sour milk to very young chicks, and leave 
plenty of grit handy. The best way to feed milk is to 
boil it and add one-fourth water. Milk is one of the 



112 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

best foods that can be used, but care should be exer- 
cised in cleaning the drinking vessels. They should be 
washed out in cold water and then scalded every day. 

Diphtheria is not only dangerous, but can be trans- 
mitted direct from one bird to another. Canker is a 
Diphtheria ^^^ form of diphtheria. It is a cold-weather 
and disease, not necessarily contracted by filthy 

Canker. q^. Jamp housing. 

Symptoms. — The feathers are ruffled and the bird 
seems to be sleep\^ and showing signs of catarrh. The 
neck seems to be stiff. Soon there is a slight discharge 
from the nostrils, and more or less of a sticky sub- 
stance from the mouth. The mouth will be found to 
contain this sticky or stringy substance, especially well 
back towards the throat. This substance soon becomes 
thicker and vile smelling. The back of the mouth 
and throat first becomes red and then purple. The 
membrane finally runs together, thus closing the open- 
ing of the larynx, thus suffocating the bird. This dis- 
ease usually runs from six to twenty days. 

Treatment. — The bird should be moved to a room 
that can be kept warm night and day and the atmos- 
phere kept moist by boiling water. Keep the discharge 
wiped off of the mouth and throat, and with a quill 
blow sulphide of calcium, in powdered form, over the 
mucous membrane three or four times a day. If the 
bird is able to swallow, put a grain of calcium sulphide 
in a little warm mash and give before each application 
of the powder to the throat. 

Canker is a mild form of diphtheria. The bird 
seems to be dumpish and has a desire to swallow, even 
when not eating. The best thing to do is to blow, with 
a quill, finely pulverized chlorate of potash on the sore 
places in the mouth. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 113 

Inflammation of the Oviduct. — Old hens are more 

subjected to this disorder than pullets, for the simple 

reason that they lay on fat more readily than 

Ovfduct ^^ pullets, and this is the main cause, together 

with the over-feeding of spices, etc. This 

disease usually follows the egg-bound condition. 

Symptoms. — The bird suffers greatly while in this 
condition, and there is at first a violent straining, 
which gradually subsides as exhaustion follows, with 
death not far off. The vent is hot, but as the disease 
progresses the fever gradually runs down. The wings 
droop and feathers are ruffled or puffed out. 

Treatment. — Act quickly with this disease and give 
one-half teaspoonful sulphate magnesia in a table- 
spoonful of water. Examine the egg passage with an 
oiled finger and remove all foreign substance, such as 
an egg shell, etc. Keep the bowels well opened with 
the magnesia or castor oil and feed on a soft mash. 



This disease, like inflammation, is caused by over- 
feeding on fattening foods, thus crowding the internal 

organs by the accumulation of useless fat. 
Bound '^^^^ liver is usually enlarged and the whole 

muscular system weakened by fatty degener- 
ation. Thus the muscles are not only weakened, but 
quite easily ruptured. 

The muscles around the egg passage (oviduct) are 
likewise weakened, and when an extra large egg is pass- 
ing or fright causes an extra pressure upon the muscles, 
the passage may be torn open and the egg passes into 
the abdominal cavity, and death follows. Hens found 
dead on the nest are killed by this same fatty degener- 
ation. The strain caused by laying is too much for the 
8 



114 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

weakened heart. Misshaped eggs, soft-shelled eggs or 
extra large eggs all point to too much fat. 

Symptoms. — The bird goes around with tail depressed 
and occasionally going to the nest as if to lay. She 
will be found straining and with an oiled finger we can 
sometimes feel the hard substance within the vent. 

Treatment. — Dip the finger in castor oil and anoint 
well the inside of vent. If the egg can be felt it should 
be broken and the pieces removed, after which give a 
teaspoonful of linseed meal mixed with bread. Little 
can be done in this case, as the cause is overfatness. 
Feed sparingly on a mash of cut clover bran and mid- 
dlings until hen is reduced in flesh. Plenty of exer- 
cise, scratching, after recovery, is necessary. 



Leg weakness is especially prevalent in brooder 
chicks, and is the result of high feeding, thus produc- 
ing rapid growth. A lack of bone or food 
The Leg*, rich in lime, together with little exercise, is 
largely the cause. The chick is apparently 
well in all other directions — eats well, but can scarcely 
stand, and often moving around on its knees. 

Treatment. — Feed more finely-ground bone, clover 
hay, etc., and less corn or fattening food. Provide exer- 
cise for those able to take it. This condition is not 
dangerous if it is not continued too long. One grain 
of quinine per day for each bird, given in form of a 
pill, is an excellent help. 

Rheumatism. — This disease is apt to affect the whole 
body. The joints swell, and the skin over them is red 
and hot to the touch. It is caused by exposure to cold 
or dampness, the feeding of sulphur during damp 
weather, or lack of green food or too much nitrogenous 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 115 

food. It usually attacks the bird in the legs. Young 
turkeys are especially affected with rheumatism, also 
young chicks to a less extent. Old fowls are occasion- 
ally subjected to it. 

Treatment. — Place the affected birds in a dry, clean 
room with board floor. Feed on a variety of green 
stuff, such as cabbage, lettuce, carrot tops, beet tops, 
etc. Give fresh water, so the birds can not get it on 
themselves or the floor. Rub the legs with a soft cloth 
dipped in extract witch-hazel, and then wrap them in 
flannel. Also put twelve or fifteen grains of iodide of 
potassium in the drinking water. 



This usually attacks young chicks and is caused by 
crowding, too little exercise, or too much 
Cramps. i^eat. The remedy is to correct the condi- 
tions that produce it. 

This is a very common disease and is purely the fault 
of the owner. In advanced stages it is also dangerous 
and always unsightly. It is caused by a 
Scaly Leg's, minute insect burrowing under the scales of 
the shank and causing them to enlarge. One 
fowl can spread the disease to all; even half-grown 
chicks can take it, although fowls are the ones most 
affected. 

Treatment. — A mixture of sulphur and lard, rubbed 
on the legs once a week until cured, is good. The 
quickest treatment is kerosene. Take a quart can, fill 
it with kerosene and dip the legs of the affected fowls 
therein. Have the can deep enough to cover all the 
enlarged scales, and hold each leg under the oil from 
one to two minutes. Repeat after one week. This 
treatment is too severe for chicks. 



116 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

The foot becomes puffed and will be found to be hot 

and tender, and matter gathers beneath the thick skin 

on the sole or bottom of the foot. It is usu- 

Foot ^^^y caused by birds jumping from high 

roosts on a hard floor; the heavy breeds are, 

therefore, the ones most afflicted. 

Treatment. — If taken in hand before matter has 
formed, the foot should be washed in strong vinegar 
and then painted with iodine. Keep the bird on a soft 
straw bedding. If matter has formed, then a sharp, 
slender knife should be used. Press out and wash out 
with warm water, to which a few drops of carbolic acid 
has been added. Apply nitrate of silver— ten grains to 
an ounce of distilled water. 



If on the shank, bind with two or three turns of a 
wide band. Place wooden tooth-picks up and down 

around the broken place and give two or 
Bones^^ three more turns of bandage ; cut off and sew 

up. If the wing or thigh is broken, cut off 
the head and serve as pot-pie. (Not the head.) 



The causes for apoplexy are either a week condition 
of the blood vessels of the brain, or a great pressure on 
them, thus causing a break letting out the 
Apoplexy, ^^i^^^ ^^-^^^ ^j^g brain. Overfat hens are in a 
good condition for apoplexy ; thus they will be found 
dead under the roost in the morning. A too hearty 
meal may cause it, or violent exercise caused by a 
fright from dog or man. Straining in laying an extra 
large egg often ruptures a blood vessel in the brain. 
Extreme heat in summer may also cause it. 

Treatment. — If seen in time, bleed the bird by cut- 
ting a vein on under side of wing. The proper thing 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 117 

to do, however, is to keep the birds in proper condition 
by giving a varied diet and plenty or exercise. Avoid 
all excitement and do not let them get overfat. 



Impaction. — The crop often becomes impacted with 

food or trash picked up by the fowl. If this mass gets 

dry and hard, it can not pass into the gizzard 

^ ^^^' and, unless relieved, the bird will starve to 
death. This state of affairs is caused by the bird swal- 
lowing long pieces of hay or dried grass, or by giving a 
heavy feed of cracked corn or other grains. The bird 
fills the crop, and when this mass swells there is not 
room enough for it to work. Sometimes a large piece 
of wood or bone will get across the outlet to the gizzard 
and thus block up the passage-way. True, every time 
a bird swallows long substances or eats too much, im- 
paction does not follow, yet it is apt to, especially if the 
bird is not in prime health. 

Treatment. — The crop must be softened by giving a 
tablespoonful of castor oil and then gently working the 
crop with the fingers, especially working the mass back 
from the opening to the gizzard. Take the bird by the 
legs and try (if the mass is softened) to work the food 
— a little at a time — down and out of the mouth. If 
not successful then the crop will have to be opened. 
Have some one to hold the bird. Pull out a few feath- 
ers along the center of crop, in a line with the breast- 
bone, and with a very sharp knife make a cut, about 
an inch long, of the outer skin, push this slightly aside 
and cut through the crop about three-quarters of an 
inch long. Remove the contents with a small blunt 
instrument, after which insert the finger and make 
sure everything is out, especially away from the pas- 
sageway to the gizzard. Now take three or four stitches 



118 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE^ 

in the crop, making each one separate, then the same 
in the outer skin, using fine white silk or cotton. 
Place the bird in a dry coop and feed lightly on soft food 
for a week. 



INFLAMMATION. — This is cEused by the fowl eating 
irritant material. The bird seems restless, occasion- 
ally holding the head down and trying to vomit; 
breathing not regular. We seldom know just what 
the bird has been eating, so the only thing to do is to 
try to work the material down and out of the mouth, 
first forcing warm water into the crop. If the crop can 
be emptied then flaxseed tea can be given for drink and 
feed lightly for a week. 

Enlarged Crop, or slack crop, as it is sometimes 
called. This is usually caused by irregular feeding, 
thus causing the birds to overload the crop when they 
do get the food. After awhile the crop will become 
weakened and lose its power of contraction. It hangs 
down and has not the power to contract and thus force 
the food into the gizzard. The only thing that can be 
done is to make a long slit in the crop (as in impaction) 
and cut out on each side of the opening a piece so the 
opening will look like this ( ) and then ew up as above. 
The piece removed should be about two inches long by 
one or two inches wide, according to the size of the 
crop. 

Bronchitis. — This is often confounded with pneu- 
monia, but is really a disease of the mucous membrane 

lining the bronchial tubes. It varies from a 
The Lung's, slight cold to a copious outpouring of mucus, 

so that the fowl is in danger of strangling. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 119 

This disease is more prevalent in the fall and winter. 
Sudden changes in the weather, too much glass in the 
house so that it becomes very hot during the day and 
cold at night. Dust or irritating matter, such as air- 
slaked lime, or if the birds are the offspring of roupy 
parents, damp currents of air may also produce it. 
When suddenly attacked there is an increased heat and 
dryness of the mucous membrane and intense thirst. 
A whistling noise in breathing can be heard, but as the 
disease progresses the whistling sound will give place 
to a rattling sound. 

Treatment. — In the first stages of bronchitis there is 
nothing better than aconite — say one drop of the 
tincture every hour for four or five hours and then one 
drop every three hours. If this treatment does no 
good then Dr. Sanborn recommends a pill called '' Du- 
mas Antimalarial," made of strychnine, iron and 
quinine. This is recommended to cure nine-tenths of 
such cases. In all cases where the mucous membrane 
is involved the patient should be kept in a warm, 
moist atmosphere. Keep water boiling on the stove. 
Give a hot mash of ground grains, half of which should 
be bran. 



This disease is the inflammation of the air cells of 
the lungs, and is apt to prove fatal. Some writers also 
claim that it is contagious. Pneumonia 
Pneumonia, comes from a cold or exposure to damp, cold 
storms, keeping the fowls or chicks too 
closely housed or babying them. Dry cold does not 
hurt fov/ls. Fowls must have exercise in the open air, 
and when stormy, or snow is on the ground, then open 
a window away from the windy side of the house dur- 



120 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE, 

ing the day time. It is all right to close the house up 
tightly at night if cold weather. 

Symptoms. — The bird is hot and feverish, with short, 
labored breathing. The bird does not move around 
but stands with wings down, and its only effort is to 
get its breath, which is no small matter. 

Treatment. — Keep the bird in a warm, moist atmos- 
phere. Put tincture aconite in the drinking water, and 
every three hours give one grain phenacetin and one 
grain sub-phocarlolate of zinc mixed with bread crumbs 
enough to make a pill. Feed on raw egg and milk. If 
the bird shows signs of recovery then feed a mixture of 
soft feed and keep quinine or nux vomica in the drink- 
ing water. 



Fungoid. — This is a contagious disease. At first a 
few small swellings or ulcers appear on the comb — oc- 
casionally on the wattles also. At first they 
The Comb, are hard , but soon become soft and break 
and discharge a yellowish liquid. Other 
ulcers appear and so continue until the head swells and 
the whole head and neck is affected. If the disease is 
far advanced the birds had better be killed. Separate 
all sick birds. Tie the legs so that the bird can just 
walk around but can not scratch the head. Sponge the 
head often with warm water to which a little carbolic 
acid has been added — say a teaspoonful to a cup of wa- 
ter. Feed on soft food to which a little pepper has been 
added. 



Black Rot. — The comb, especially the points, be- 
come purple, which soon changes to black. It is a 
sort of dry rot, and if the bird lives long enough, the 
comb — part of it — drops off. Remove the bird to clean, 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 121 

dry quarters, with plenty of pure air and sunshine. 
Put one-half teaspoonful muriate of ammonia in a pint 
of drinking water. Paint the comb three times a day 
with a mixture of one ounce of water, one-half ounce 
glycerine and five grains of carbolic acid. Feed on 
soft food with plenty of green food handy. 



White or Scurvy Comb. — This is a fungus growth, 
and the comb seems to be covered with a whitish dust. 
It soon spreads to the head and neck, causing the feath- 
ers to drop off from the affected parts. Sulphur in the 
drinking water is recommended, or paint the comb 
with a mixture of sulphur and tar ointment. Give a 
dose of castor oil. 



Injuries to the Comb, caused by fights or otherwise, 
need no attention, except in severe tears or cuts. Wipe 
away all blood with warm water, to which a little car- 
bolic acid — half a teaspoonful to cup of water — has 
been added, and take a stitch or two if the cut is se- 
vere. Remove all birds that meet with mishaps in or- 
der to protect them, and thus prevent the fowls from 
learning to pick at each other's combs. 



Frost Bites. — The comb, when frosted, turns dark 
and then black, and in time drops off. This is very 
painful, and the fowl is of no use until well. Never 
take a bird with frosted comb into a warm room, but 
try to thaw out the frost gradually by removing to a 
room but little above the freezing point, and twice a 
day anoint the comb with carbolized vaseline. During 
freezing weather a fowl will often freeze its wattles by 
getting them wet while drinking and then going out of 
doors. Keep the birds housed during such severe 



122 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

weather and give warm water to drink, and in such a 
manner so that the wattles will not get wet. The tall 
comb varieties can not stand as severe weather as the 
low-comb varieties, but even with these the wattles may 
freeze. It is pure carelessness on the part of the owner 
when combs are frozen. It puts a stop to all egg lay- 
ing. 



This is quite common, both in chickens and fowls. 
It is no particular disease, but a general weakness due 
to improper handling or feeding, and yet 
Goins-^Llo-ht ^^^^ chick will have it while the rest of the 
" " * clutch will be all right. It is probably 
some inherent weakness. A good condition powder 
mixed with the soft feed is good. Have plenty of grit, 
charcoal and bone handy, also. 



Vertigo. — This is due to brain pressure. The bird 
seems dizzy, and will turn round and round. Derange- 
ment of the digestive system also has an influence this 
way. It is usually seen with over-fat hens. In severe 
attacks the bird will whirl around and then fall to the 
ground. 

Treatment. — Give a good dose of castor oil and feed 
on light diet of largely cut clover and wheat bran. 



This is not a separate disease, but is caused by the 
fowls being compelled to breathe through the mouth, 

the nostrils being closed. The tip of the 
Pip. tongue becomes dry and hard. Treat the 

disease that causes it and bathe the tongue 
with glycerine. Do not remove the hard lump from 
the tongue. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 123 

Little attention has heretofore been paid to worms in 
fowls. The United States Agricultural Department has 
lately published a bulletin on worms in fowls, 
Worms. especially worms in turkeys. In some sec- 
tions of the country it is almost impossible to 
raise turkeys on this account. They play a far more 
important part in poultry raising than is generally 
known. There are two kinds, viz.: roundworms and 
tapeworms. 

Roundworm. — These worms are from a third of an 
inch to five or six inches in length. They are white in 
color. These worms, while quite common, do little 
harm unless present in large numbers. They may pro- 
duce "stoppage" of the bowels, diarrhea, or, by tak- 
ing large quantities of food, weaken the bird. 

Treatment. — Every other morning give a two-grain 
pill of santonine followed by a half teaspoonful of castor 
oil. Remove such fowls, so other birds will not pick 
up the worms that may pass. 



Tapeworm. — Some writers affirm that taj)eworm in 
fowls is identical to the tapeworm found in cats. The 
bird may grow thin without apparent cause. If the 
joints of the worm are seen in the droppings give five 
drops oil male fern in a teaspoonful of sweet oil. Give 
this early in the morning, and about two hours there- 
after give the morning feed or mash and a spoonful of 
castor oil for each bird. 



With this disease the fowl loses all control of the 
neck and it hangs loosely down, the head often resting 

on the ground. This is largely confined to 
Neck?*' portions of the south, and is caused by fowls 

eating maggots. Give four or five drops of 
turpentine in a spoonful of water. 



124 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

This is not a disease but rather a habit. Some breeds 
learn this habit more readily than others. It is espe- 
cially common among yarded fowls, and is 
Eatin^^' the direct cause of overfeeding, therefore, 
lack of exercise. The fowls are not com- 
pelled to work, and too many in one pen make work 
impossible. Not feeding a variety of food, thus caus- 
ing the fowls to long for something to sustain all por- 
tions of the body, is another factor. Fowls properly 
fed and given exercise will never acquire this habit. 
One bird in the flock will soon teach others to follow 
suit. 

Treatment. — Feed on a balanced ration with plenty 
of green food, meat, etc. Provide scratching pens and 
feed sparingly and make the birds work. Do not over- 
crowd the pens or runs. Remove such birds — if only 
a few have acquired the habit — to a separate coop. Put 
tar on the feathers around where the birds pick, or bit- 
ter aloes. 

The poultry bit, lately placed on the market, is a 
good thing; or take a small piece of metal one inch 
long and one-sixteenth of an inch thick, fasten a fine 
wire to each end and place in mouth, running the wire 
through front of comb and fasten. Have it small 
enough, so the bird can pick up corn, but so it can not 
quite shut the mouth. A week or two will usually cure 
the habit. 



This is another vice, and the same causes lead to it 
as in feather pulling. It is also caused by hens laying 

soft or thin-shelled eggs, and when one is 
Eaing" broken the hens will eat it, thus forming the 

habit. Be careful to gather all the eggs each 
night and provide sufficient nests, so there will be no 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 125 

crowding while laying. Do not feed egg shells to hens 
unless crushed fine. Place nests in dark places, and 
so protected that the hen can hardly see the egg after 
laying. Kill all inveterate egg-eaters. 



Gapes attack small chickens, and are caused by small 
red worms attaching themselves to the walls of the 
trachea or windpipe and becoming so numer- 
Gapes. ous as to close up the passage, thus choking 
the chick. This trouble, not only found in 
chicks but in the young of all wild birds, has been 
known for more than one hundred years. Thousands 
of chicks die each year from this cause. This trouble, 
or disease, is prevalent during warm, especially warm 
and moist weather. The earth worm is supposed to at 
times carry the gape worm eggs within its own body. 
The chick picks up the eggs, or the earth worm con- 
taining eggs, and the eggs coming in contact with the 
heat of the body hatch, and the worms find their way 
to the trachea. 

Dr. H. D. Walker has found that if newly hatched 
embryos were introduced into a chick, that in eight 
days full grown gape worms would be found in the 
trachea. When well grown the worms are about one- 
half inch long and appear to be double; in reality they 
are two worms, male and female, permanently united 
for breeding. The eggs are deposited when, from vari- 
ous causes, the worms are torn apart or the female is 
ruptured, thus letting out the eggs; the parents die of 
course. 

Symptoms. — At first there is a slight cough not un- 
like a cold, and in a few days the chick will throw up 
its head at every breath and gasp or gape, thus giving 
the name to the disease. This disease acts very much 



126 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

like bronchitis, etc., but an examination of the wind- 
pipe will show what it is. 

Treatment. — There are nearly as many remedies as 
there are people who have this trouble to contend with, 
and we will give a few remedies that have been tried 
successfully on our own farm and others. The horse 
hair, stripped feather or silver gape worm extractors 
will remove the worms from the windpipe, but this re- 
quires individual handling and is slow. 

Tie some assafoetida in a thin cloth (about the size of 
a small marble) and keep this in the drinking water for 
a few days (one quart of water). Turpentine or carbolic 
acid is also good to put in the drinking water. 

Be sure to fill up all holes where water is apt to col- 
lect after storms, for these places are good breeding 
grounds for gape worms. 

Some have success in this way: take a soap box, 
place therein a dozen chicks and tie over the top a thin 
coarse cloth; dust through this some fine air-slacked 
lime. In breathing this the chicks will be forced to 
cough violently, and probably the worms relax their 
hold a little. Many worms are thus coughed out and 
the chicks recover. 

Never try to raise chicks on infected ground. Re- 
move the coops to new ground, and if the infected 
ground is left unoccupied for three years the worms 
will die out, or if new ground is not to be had then 
build a chicken yard, the yard should be twenty or 
more feet square for each one hundred chicks. Make 
the fence tight and place the chicken coops therein. 
Before the chicks are due spread a bushel or two of 
air-slaked lime over each twenty by twenty foot yard. 
This will kill the worms, and after the chicks are eight 
or ten weeks old they may be allowed to run about at 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 127 

will. We recommend this method to all who have 
trouble of this kind. 

Onion tops mixed freely in the food for the little 
chicks will often prevent them from getting the gapes. 



We have tried to describe nearly all poultry diseases 
and suggest remedies for them, but prevention is the 

best of all, and when we prevent the ravages 
Lice. of lice we aim at the root of at least half the 

diseases to which poultry is heir to. True, 
lice may not be the direct cause of the special disease, 
but they are at the root of the matter by sapping the 
vitality (blood) of the fowls, thus weakening the sys- 
tem and causing the birds to be susceptible to any 
special disease that may be in the air. The keeping 
down of lice is a constant warfare. 

The lice that give us so much trouble during warm 
or hot weather are the little red mites and the little 
but active gray or spider lice. This latter variety is 
the one that gets all over a person when working in 
the roost. These two varieties do not stay on the hens 
during the day time but they make life a burden dur- 
ing the night. The little red mites are more easily 
seen during the day time for they cling in bunches un- 
der the roost-pole, in the cracks of the house and 
around the nests. The large body lice are, like the 
poor, always with us. These stay on the hens day and 
night. These are brownish. There is also a large 
gray louse, called head lice, that stay on the head and 
neck. There is yet another kind of body louse. It is 
long but thin and more of a gray color. 

The red and spider lice are the easiest to deal with 
and if our roosts are lousy it is our own fault. Just as 
soon as warm weather sets in in the spring we should 



128 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

commence. In the first place have everything mova- 
ble in the hen roost, nest, boxes, roost poles and drop- 
ping board. Thoroughly clean out the house and after 
shutting it up tightly burn sulphur in it for several 
hours. Then take a quart can of kerosene oil and, 
armed with a large paint brush, paint everything in the 
house, taking pains to get the oil well into the cracks. 
Paint the walls of house around the roost poles and 
nest boxes and ''slap" the oil well into the cracks. 
After this is thoroughly done whitewash the whole 
house inside. One whitewashing is enough during the 
season. If the roost poles, dropping boards, nests and 
sides of house are thoroughly gone over about once a 
month with kerosene the first battle will be won. The 
body lice are harder to get at. There is a certain liquid 
preparation, we understand, that is guaranteed to kill 
all the body lice by simply painting the roost poles and 
dropping boards. Persian insect powder or Death to 
Lice will kill the body lice, but each fowl will have to 
be handled. At night go into the roost and take each 
fowl by the feet — head down — and rub a few pinches of 
the powder well down in the feathers on the neck, 
wings, fiuff and around the vent. In about ten days 
repeat the operation, so as to kill the new batches, and 
you can be sure that the hens are free from lice for a 
month or two at least. 

Provide good dust boxes with plenty of fine dry road 
dust therein and the hens will be able to keep down the 
lice to a certain extent. There is no use in looking for 
a large egg yield when the fowls are nearly devoured 
by lice. The chicks suffer even more from this cause 
than do the older fowls because they are not strong 
enough to withstand the strain. Half the chicks that 
die the cause can be traced to lice. Turkeys are even 



PRACTICAL rOULTRY CULTURE. 129 

more susceptible to the ravages of lice than are the 
chicks. 

Head lice are especially destructive to chicks and 
young turkeys. If the chicks grow thin, or if the 
feathers are rough, or if they seem to be dizzy headed, 
look for lice. They are there whether you see them or 
not. Look also on the top side of the wing, down be- 
tween the large feathers, and they will be seen. 

Commence to fight lice when the hen is first set by 
thoroughly dusting her with insect powder and sprink- 
ling a little in the nest. Repeat this in ten days and 
again on the eighteenth day of incubation. Dust the 
hen and chicks every two -weeks, or lard can be safely 
used, also sweet oil. Put a little — do not use much — 
on the head and neck, under the wings and around the 
vent of each chick every two weeks. Don't try to raise 
fine poultry and lice at the same time, for it can not be 
done. Decide first which it will be, and then go ahead. 
More young turkeys die each year from the ravages of 
lice than from all other causes put together. Don't 
neglect the head lice especially. One big feliow is 
enough to kill a young turkey. 
9 



CHAPTER IX. 

CAPONIZING. 

While the United States occupies the front rank in 
poultry culture, yet caponizing is little practiced. 
Capons make far better eating than any other form of 
poultry meat, yet we have never acquired that fondness 
for them that the English, French and Chinese have, 
owing, probably, to the art not being generally under- 
stood ; therefore, capons have never been properly 
forced upon the market. A few years ago green or 
young ducks received little attention, and, therefore, 
few buyers ; but with the advent of the incubator the 
industry developed. Green ducks were forced upon 
the market by the ton, and, strange to say, prices 
steadily advanced until now 40 cents per pound is 
realized for the earliest shipments. Why? Simply be- 
cause people have acquired a taste for duck meat, 
because of their abundance. 

We venture to predict just such a healthy demand 
for capons, providing caponizing becomes generally 
practiced. Caponizing improves the flavor 
Demand °^ ^^^® carcass, and the meat is also finer 
grained. This is probably accounted for in 
the fact that capons are of a very quiet disposition, 
never fighting or taking vigorous exercise. The size is 
also increased about a third, and frequently these mild 
birds are used to mother a iDatch of chicks. They de- 

(130) 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 131 

light in the company of small chicks and make excel- 
lent mothers with very little training. 

The ohject, of course, is size. The larger the capon, 
the greater the price per pound. Large capons bring 

from 20 cents to 25 cents per pound, while 
able "' ^^^^^ ^^ ^^ip^ bring less, therefore the larger 

breeds should be used. Plymouth Rocks, 
Cochins or Brahmas make good capons, although any 
breed, excepting the large comb varieties, will do fairly 
well. 

An expert can perform the entire operation in two 
minutes or less. The operation is painful while it lasts, 

so is dehorning of cattle ; yet with cattle the 
ino^Cruell' ^^v^^t^S^ thus derived, in an additional flow 

of milk and quiet in the barnyard, more than 
compensates for the operation. Thus, in caponizing, 
the quiet disposition of the always pugnacious cocks 
will easily compensate for the pain thus caused. The 
higher price derived, added to the increased weight, 
ought to compensate the owner for the trouble of cap- 
onizing. We all know that it is almost impossible to 
keep a large number of cockerels together ; especially 
if yarded. Caponize these same cockerels and they 
will live together far more quietly than the same num- 
ber of hens. 

Slips are partly caponized fowls. They are often as 
pugnacious as cockerels, but usually do not grow so 

large as a full capon, neither is the flesh so 
Slips. tender and juicy. This is caused by leaving 

some of the testicle within. • With proper in- 
struments, few slips will be the result. If a small par- 
ticle is left within, it can be removed by spooning it 
out with a proper instrument. 

The cockerels to be caponized should be without food 



132 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

for twenty-four hours before the operation. For the 
next few days they should be fed very spar- 
Food, ingly on soft food, after which they can be 
fed as other fowls. For a month or two after 
the operation they will be very ravenous, but this will 
gradually subside. If confined, feed green food, cut 
bone or meat, or grit and powdered charcoal, with 
plenty of fresh, clean water. Also keep them free from 
lice. Ducks and pullets can also be caponized, but the 
operation is harder to perform and may not prove prof- 
itable. 

The proper age to caponize is when two or three 
months old. They are usually sold when from ten to 
fifteen months old. The market opens soon 
When to after the holidays. This art can readily be 
learned by any one who has a steady hand 
and good eyesight. Of course experiments should be 
tried on dead birds, for when the operation is slowly or 
poorly done it is extremely painful and cruel. The 
proper way is to take a few lessons from an expert. 

We are indebted for the following cuts of instru- 
ments and birds to Mr. Wm. H. Wigmore, who is a 
maker of caponizing instruments. No per- 
meuts^^*^"" ^^^ should attempt to caponize without a full 
set of instruments. Figure 1 shows the 
method of securing the bird. A narrow table, box or 
barrel should be used, so it can easily be turned in or- 
der to get the sunlight to shine 
on and in the opening, thus 
making the parts to be removed 
plainly visible. Lay the bird 
on its left side, securely tie the 
legs above the knees ; also pass 

another cord around the wings. 
Figure L ^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ 1^^ ^g^^ ^^ 




PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 133 

hold the ends of the cords securely, thus keeping the 
bird quiet. Wet the bird's side and feathers with cold 
water, to prevent bleeding. This will also allow the 
feathers to be twisted back out of the way, thus pre- 
venting the pulling of the feathers. Now push the 
flesh down toward the hip, so that when the operation 
is performed the flesh will come back and completely 
close up the hole between the ribs ; thus the opening 
in the skin will be three-quarters of an inch above and 
between the ribs, enabling the wound to heal up in a 
couple of days. 

The incision must be made between the first and sec- 
ond rib, about one-half inch long. When ready to cut 
press the point of the knife in quickly one-quarter of 
an inch and hold it there a second, as the bird will 
move his ribs up and down at that point a moment, 
then he will become quiet. Increase the cut one-half 
inch. Lay the knife aside, keeping the skin in place 
with the left hand. Now take up the spreader (see fig- 
ure 2) between the thumb and first finger. Press the 




Figure 2. 

two points together and insert the hooked ends in the 
incision, making sure to have the hooks between the 
ribs. Hold the spreader in position with the left hand, 
and with the knife increase the opening by cutting to- 
wards the backbone and forward in a line between the 
ribs, until large enough to allow the free passage of the 
scoop twister. Do not cut too near the backbone. Lit- 



134 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

tie or no blood should be drawn by cutting in a line 
with the veins, not across them. If blood should be 
drawn carefully wipe it off with a damp rag or sponge 
before opening the inner thin skin, otherwise the blood 
will run in on the testicles and make the lower one 
hard to find. 

Now take up the scoop twister and w^ith the hook end 
tear open the thin skin until the right testicle is in full 
view. Use the hook wnth great care, so as not to 
puncture an artery or the bowels. 



No. 1 — Figure 3. 



ll^ 



No. 2— Figure 3. 



No. 3— Figure 3. 

Take the canula spatula (see No. 2 — Figure 3) in 
the left hand, and with it push the bowels aside; just 
below will be seen the left testicle. Now introduce the 
scoop twister (see No. 3 — Figure 3) with the right 
hand, catching the lower or left testicle endwise in 
the scoop. Gently shake it to get it all in and make 
the spermatic cord settle well down in the slot. Now 
carefully twist the testicle off. The spatula is valuable 
to help push the testicle in the scoop and preventing 
the bowels from being tw^isted up with the scoop. Next 
perform the same operation on the right or upper testi- 
cle. The reason for removing the left or lower testicle 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTUREo 135 

first is because it is the hardest to get at, and being 
lower down, should blood be drawn, it will make the 
operation harder to be performed. After removing the 
left testicle it will only be a very few seconds before the 
right one will be removed and the operation completed. 
If a small piece has been left in by not getting quite 
all of the testicle in the scoop, put the scoop in again 
and catch it in the slot. A piece no larger than a 
pinhead left in is what produces slips. If the testicle 
is large, as in the older birds, the only thing to do is to 
remove as much as possible and then go again for the 
balance. If much blood has been drawn, spoon it out 
with the scoop. 

The next day after the operation, if they have a windy 
swelling around the wound, run a darning needle 
through the skin to let out the air, although they w^ill 
usually come out all right without the use of the darn- 
ing needle. 

If the operation is successful they shortly have a 
passage. After the operation place the bird in a pen or 
enclosed yard for a few days, after which it can be 
allow^ed to run at w411. Capons never crow. 

In dressing them for market leave the feathers on the 
neck, wings and tail. 



CHAPTER X. 

SHORT ITEMS KEEPING EGGS KEEP AN ACCOUNT 

COLD STORAGE. 

The sales of produce are largely based on the supply 
and demand, especially the supply. Is there an over- 
production of poultry or eggs? Fifteen years 

Good g-oods ago the incubator was comparatively un- 
commaiid ^^ r^i • i • j • xi i u 

g-ood prices. ^^^^^^- thicks were raised m the good old 

way, and in the spring and summer only. 
Broilers in March, April and May were unknown, and 
indeed they were in but slight demand. Since that 
time thousands of incubators and brooders have been 
sold and used. Thousands of broilers have been thrown 
on tlie early and late markets, and yet prices keep pace 
with the supply. In 1893 the crash came, but the poul- 
try product seemed to suffer less than any other farm 
product. During the year that has passed wheat 
has been selling below the cost of production. Other 
farm crops — including calves, beeves and hogs — have 
been way down, and yet poultry and eggs have been 
selling at a fair profit. Why is this thus? The pop- 
ulation of our cities is increasing, and as the supply 
of the poultry product has also vastly increased, the 
people, seeing the attractive and nutritious food on 
every hand, have been induced to purchase more freely. 
Poultry exhibitions in nearly all the large cities have 
helped to attract the attention of the people. The 
growing interest in thorouglibred poultry and the de- 

(136) 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 137 

sire to produce choice articles of food has had its effect, 
and to-day there are many times the buyers of poultry 
and eggs there were a few years ago. There is, there- 
fore, no overproduction in sight as yet. There are 
thousands of people who do not purchase dressed poul- 
try more than two or three times a year, and we believe 
that as the supply increases the demand will increase. 
We do not expect to see an over-production of choice 
poultry or eggs, in our day at least. We say choice. 
Tliere is now, and always has been, an over-supply of 
inferior grades. If we wish to secure good prices we 
must put our goods up in attractive packages. If we 
send chicks or fowls to market they must be well 
dressed and plump, and so packed that when they are 
taken out by the dealer they will have a fresh and clean 
appearance. If we send eggs they should be assorted 
as to size and color. Some markets demand a white 
egg, some a brown egg. Raise and send just what 
your market will pay the best prices for. Watch the 
market and send just when the prices are at their best. 
From February to June the New York market demands 
broilers that weigh 3)4 pounds per pair. From June to 
September roasters that weigh 5 to 8 pounds per pair 
are in demand, and after that fowls are in demand. 
Eggs bring the highest prices during cold weather, 
therefore have the hens laying from October to Febru- 
ary. A hen is simply a machine, and if she is kept 
warm and fed for eggs, under proper conditions, she 
can not help herself, but must lay. Let us not only 
study the market, but study the wants of our fowls as 
well, for there is money in them. 



It has always been the custom to put eggs down in 
salt or lime if they are to be held for higher prices. 



188 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

There are about as many different ways of 
E^^s^"^ keeping eggs as there are people who wish to 

keep them. We will give a simple method 
used by a few. In the first place, all eggs that are in- 
tended to be preserved should be laid by hens not 
mated with a cock. Infertile eggs will keep for a long 
time. It is always more or less risky to attempt to keep 
fertile eggs, for if there is much change in temperature 
the germ may start and then die, thus causing the egg 
to "addle," or spoil. If, hDwever, there is no germ 
there to start, then the egg stands an excellent chance 
to keep. True it is that the longer we keep eggs the 
staler they will get — they never seem to go the other 
way; but if they are kept in a cool, dry place they will 
not get musty. Keep eggs so that the air can get to 
and all around them. The room should be cool (from 
40° to 60°) and well ventilated. Don't let it get mus- 
ty. Build racks that will hold, say 100 eggs each. 
Make the bottoms of wire netting and run sticks across 
every two inches apart. The sticks should be half an 
incli wide at bottom and come to a point at top. They 
should be triangular, in fact. Make the sides of tray 
one inch high. Now make a rack the width of the 
trays, with cleats on the inside, say four inches apart, 
so that the trays can be shoved in the rack, one tray 
above another. In this way a great many eggs can be 
placed in a small space and always be out of the way. 
Turn the eggs half over two or three times a week. 
Draw out a tray of eggs, invert an empty tray over the 
full one, take firm hold on each side and invert, re- 
placing the formerly empty tray in the rack. Thus it 
only takes about a minute to turn 100 eggs. 



How many farmers are there who really know whether 
their poultry pays them or not? Very few, we would 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 139 

say. The keeping of accounts is very simple, 
Account. ^^^^ ^'® ^^^^^ have hooks ah'eady ruled and 

printed for this very thing. 
We have kept such a record for years, and it is a source 
of great satisfaction to look over these occasionally 
and compare one year with another and thus see where- 
in we have failed. Poultry furnishes us our main sup- 
port, and if the credit was not on the right side we 
would come out rather slim, but we have no fear of 
that. Disease never enters our flocks. We never had 
a case of roup or cholera, and never expect to. We 
always have a good supply of eggs, and our broilers 
command good prices. Why? Well, if we must say 
it, we attend to all the details, both small and great, 
personally. We try never to neglect a single duty; have 
everything snug and tight, and never go to bed won- 
dering how things are getting along, for we always 
know that everything has been attended to. In fact, 
we carry business principles in our chosen business, 
and keep a record of every detail^ — the cost of pro- 
duction and the price realized from all sales, and 
when sold. We study the markets, and know just 
when and how to ship, and at the end of the year 
we can tell to a cent just how we stand. This account 
should not only take in what we sell on the market, 
but also w^iat we use in our own families, for it is just 
as much credit to the hens to supply eggs for us as for 
market. 

If we keep an account with our hens we will be apt 
to each year try to do a little better than the year be- 
fore, and thus good results will follow. How often we 
hear farmers say, ''Oh, well, hens don't pay anyway." 
The fact is that they really don't know whether they do 
or not. There are plenty of farmers' wives who supply 



140 



PRACTICA.L POULTRY CULTURE. 



the table from the production of the poultry yard, and 
yet these very farmers often say that poultry don't pay. 
It is a very small vocation to them. They rather raise 
something larger — raise a lot of hogs, and don't know 
that if the food consumed by them, if sold, would often 
bring more than do the hogs. It is the same with their 
cows, all because they do not keep an account with the 
hogs or cows. Both of these animals can be made to 
turn in a fair profit if properly managed, and if the 
farmers kept a true account with everything on the 
farm they would raise less of this or that, or improve 
on their methods of handling. 

By all means keep an account with the hens, and 
then if they don't pay just wake up and make them 
pay. 

A COLD STORAGE HOUSE. 

The house can be any desired size. A house, or 
rather ice box, 8x12x12 feet, will hold about thirty five 




Fig. 1— Cold Storage House. 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 



141 



W/W//Wy.'wA -y ^ ti'>M/y/M'AM>yA 



iroRAOt Room 



tons of ice. No house should be built that does not 
hold at least thirty tons of ice. The 
larger the bulk the slower it will melt. 
The cold room should be in the north 
end of the house, away from the sun. 
The outside studding should be 2x6 
inches. The inside and outside sheath- 
ing should be foot wide hemlock 
boards nailed on horizontally. The 
six-inch space between should be 
filled in with sawdust. Now the 
most important part is the outside 
sheathing. Nail 2x4 studding edge- 
wise against the outside sheathing of 
hemlock boards, perpendicularly, every two feet apart and 
weatherboard on these, leaving a four-inch space at the 



let Room 



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Fig.2— Ground Plan. 







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Section of side, showing how weather 
boards should be put on. 



bottom, next the ground, and also at the top, under the 
eaves. See cut. Thus we have a four-inch air-space 
between the outside and inside sheathing. The sun 



142 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE^ 

shining on the outside weatherboards will heat the air 
on the inside and cause it to rise, while cooler air 
will come in at the bottom, thus not only causing the 
real sides of the house to be always away from the sun, 
but also actually make it cooler on account of the cir- 
culation of air. 

The foundation can be of brick. It should be at least 
two feet below the surface of the ground. The sill 

should be bedded in mortar and the inside 
dati(Hr^^^" sheathing come down below or to the first 

row of brick, so that the air can not come in 
there. It will not do to pack ice against brick or stone, 
therefore the brick wall should be furrowed off by 2x4 
inch joist and boarded up on the inside. This four- 
inch space should also be filled in with sawdust. The 
cool or storage room can be four or more feet wide. The 
partition between the cool room and ice should be filled 
in with sawdust also, using 2x4 inch joist. The cool 
room should be ceiled a little below the plate. The 
cool room will be a little cooler in summer than a cool 
cellar, and if it is desirable to make it cooler yet, then 
an ice box will have to be built at the top, next the 
ceiling, 

This ice box should be some six or eight inches 
smaller all around than the room is and about eighteen 

inches or two feet deep. It should be sus- 
Box. pended from the ceiling and six inches from 

it. The ceiling of the cool room should be 
made double. The bottom of the ice box should be 
2x4 in. joist run crosswise of box and turned on edge. 
They should be about two inches apart. A drip pan 
should be suspended under the box and some six inch- 
es below the bottom joist to catch the water from the 
ice. Do not make the pan any larger than the inside 



PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 143 

of ice box. A small pipe running from one end of pan 
can carry off the water. Cold air goes down, and by 
leaving the spaces around the ice box the cold air will 
have plenty of room to move in. The ice box can be filled 
directly from the ice chamber by having a door in the 
partition between the cold room and ice chamber. This 
door should be double, the same as the partition, and 
the space between the boards made into an air chamber 
by closing up the top and bottom of door and lining 
with building paper. This cool room can now be 
made just as cold as is wanted by putting in more or 
less ice. This is the same principle that is employed in 
regular butchers' ice boxes. Such a room w^ould be too 
cold to keep eggs in, for they should not be kept at a 
temperature below 40 degrees. 

Such a house as we have described can be used in 
many ways on a farm. It can be made any size de- 
sired. It can be used for cold storage for fruit, thus 
holding them for higher prices. Shelves can be ar- 
ranged along the sides to set small articles upon. Meat, 
butter, etc., can be kept for any length of time therein. 
It can be built comparatively cheap and will repay for 
itself in one season. 

Yet another way to build a cool room is to keep the 
ice in the center and use a space all around it for a 
cool room, yet where the ice-box is used the cool room 
should be all together. The object should be to have 
the cool room just as small as possible, thus it will re- 
quire less ice to keep it cool. 

The cool room should be ventilated and kept dry and 
sweet. Whitewash the sides and use plenty of air- 
slaked lime. The floor of the ice part should be filled 
in with six inches of sawdust, for if the bottom is not 
built properly the ice will not keep. If the ground 



144 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 

under the ice part does not have a naturally good drain- 
age then a drain will have to be put in. For an ordi- 
nary sized house build a double roof or A-shaped, with 
ventilators in gable ends, and above this roof, some ten 
inches, build another roof of cheap lumber. It will 
pay, for it will keep the house very much cooler. 



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